A. Basement Flood Water and Seepage
B. Basement Foundation Structural Problems
C. Basement Moisture and Dampness
A. The most common cause of basement flood water is a failing or improper gutter system. Water falling on your roof will always try to find its' way to your basement. The "grade" conditions around the property are the next most common problem. To prevent further damages to the walls and floors, it is important to identify the source(s) before making any repairs. Minor water seepage water that flows in through cracks and holes around your foundation can be addressed easily from the inside. Basement flooding can not be cured from the inside. Your first priority is to create an efficient water path away from the basement via gutters, and/or grade renovations. If this can not be accomplished a waterproofing system can be installed to pump water out of your basement as it enters using a stone drain and sump pump system. An expert waterproofer should be called into the situation before trying this.
Minor Seepage
To control minor seepage, a masonry sealer and paint is usually good enough. If you have frequent seepage, seal the openings, then resurface the walls with a concrete coating (see below). If seepage continues, contact a foundation specialist to help you.
Waterproof masonry sealer can come in a variety of products. Some are sold in powder form and contain cement. These products must be mixed with water and applied to damp walls. Others are liquid and ready to use. Start by cleaning the surface with a wire brush, then rinse the walls clean with water and a sponge. Apply sealer to damp walls with a stiff-bristled paintbrush, making sure to cover the surface completely. After that coat dries, apply another coat, making sure the sealer coverage is even and complete
Concrete Coating -
Preparation is Important. To protect walls with a concrete/cement coating, you should fill any cracks or holes bigger than 1/8". For sealing small holes and cracks, try using a latex masonry caulk first. For bigger holes, use a latex bonding agent and a concrete patch product to make the repair. For bigger cracks, use a pourable crack filler or fortified patching cement.

Remove loose masonry from the crack with a masonry chisel and a wire brush and clean all dust and debris. (a hand vacuum works best).
Concrete Coating -
Mix your surface coating by combining 1 part cement with 2 1/2 parts moist, loose mortar sand. Add water until it looks like a stiff plaster. Before applying, scrub walls with a wire brush and rinse with water and a sponge. While walls are still wet, apply a one-quarter inch thick coating of the mixture to the walls with a trowel. Let it dry a little, then scratch the surface with the teeth on a paint roller cleaning tool. After 24 hours, apply a second coat. Wait another 24 hours then mist the wall with water twice a day for three days.
B. Basement foundation cracks are always a concern. Large fractures and cracks that continue to expand over time are signs of a major structural problem. To figure if a foundation crack is stable, you have to monitor it over the course of several months, mostly over the fall and spring seasons. Draw marks across the crack at different points, noting length as well as its width at the widest gaps. If the crack moves more than 1/16", consult a building engineer or foundation specialist.
To repair a stable crack, use a cold chisel to widen it. Make a backward-angled cut, called a "keyhole" cut that's wider at the base than the surface and no more than ½" deep. Clean out the crack with a wire brush.
Fill the crack with expanding insulating foam to help seal against moisture. Mix hydraulic cement according to manufacturer's instructions, then trowel it into the crack, working from bottom to top. Apply cement in layers no more than ½" thick, until the patch is slightly higher than surrounding area. Lightly go over cement with trowel until it's even with the surface and let it dry thoroughly.
C. Basement moisture and
dampness are commonly caused by a lack of fresh air. Condensation usually occurs
in more often in the summer months because the air has more moisture in it and
it condenses on the cooler foundation walls. Another cause can be from an
improperly vented clothes dryer. Check and adjust the dryer vent connection for
an efficient flow to the outside. In most cases a dehumidifier is the only sure
way to get rid of condensation.
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Around Philly Trades and Service Directories for:
Abington 19001,
Aldan 19018,
Ambler 19002,
Ardmore 19003,
Aston 19014,
Bala Cynwyd 19004,
Bensalem 19020,
Berwyn 19312,
Blue Bell 19422,
Bridgeport 19405,
Brookhaven 19015,
Broomall 19008,
Bryn Mawr 19010,
Chadds Ford 19317,
Cheltenham 19012,
Chester City,
Chesterbrook 19406,
Chester Heights 19017,
Clifton Heights 19018,
Concordville 19331,
Conshohocken 19428,
Darby 19023,
Devon 19333,
Dresher 19025,
Drexel Hill 19026,
Eddystone ,
Edgemont 19028,
Folcroft 19032,
Gladwyn 19035,
Glen Mills 19342,
Glenolden 19036,
Havertown 19083,
Huntingdon Valley 19006,
Jenkintown 19046,
King of Prussia 19406,
Lafayette Hill 19444,
Lansdowne 19050,
Lima 19037,
Malvern 19355,
Marcus Hook 19061,
Media 19063,
Morton 19070,
Narberth 19072,
Newtown Square 19073,
Norwood 19074,
Norristown 19403 and 19404,
Paoli 19301,
Plymouth Meeting 19462,
Prospect Park 19076,
Ridley Park 19078,
Ridley Township 19094, 19043, 19033, 19022, 19081, 19078, 19070,
Springfield 19064,
Swarthmore 19081,
Upper Darby 19082,
Valley Forge 19481,
Wayne 19087,
West Chester 19380
Delaware County, Montgomery County and Philadelphia
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