Exterior Doors, Informative and Ready to Work for You 610-789-0354

An expanding information page for: Exterior Doors

A. General Information
B. Replacing an Exterior Door

A. General Information
One of the first things one sees when approaching any property (and also the first thing one touches) is the Entry Door. Entry doors connect interior spaces to the outdoor world of the property. Since they're exposed to the elements, there is a wide range of problems. Eventually, you may need to repair or replace locksets, adjust latch-bolts and hinges, straighten warped wood, or even completely replace an entry door. Some entry doors might be protected by storm doors, which improve the insulating value of entry doors while shielding them from the elements. Storm doors have maintenance needs like hinge and latch adjustments, and window track repairs.

B. Replacing an Exterior Door
When replacing an entry door, almost all the installation hardware should be included. The only thing you'll need to buy separately is the lockset. Entry doors are very heavy, so make sure you have help before beginning installation. First, measure the height and width of the existing door. Buy a replacement door that matches the measurements.

To remove the old door, drive out the hinge pins with a hammer and a screwdriver. Use a flat pry bar and a hammer to gently remove the existing door. Using a utility knife, cut away the old caulk between the exterior siding and the brick molding on the door frame.

Pry away and discard the old door jamb and threshold. Cut off any stubborn nails with a reciprocating saw. Remove the new door from its packing, but do not remove the retaining brackets that hold the door closed. Test-fit the door unit, centering it in the rough opening. Check to make sure the door is plumb. If needed, shim under the lower side of the door jamb until the door is plumb and level.

Trace an outline of brick molding on siding. Remove the door unit after finishing the outline. Cut the siding along the outline, just down to the sheathing, using a circular saw. Stop just short of the corners to prevent damage to the siding that will remain. Finish the cuts at the corners with a sharp wood chisel. Use aviator snips to cut vinyl and aluminum siding. Cut 8"-wide strips of building paper and slide them between the siding and sheathing at the top and sides of the opening. Each piece overlaps the piece below it. Bend paper around the framing members and staple it in place.

To provide an added moisture barrier, cut a piece of drip edge to fit the width of the rough opening, then slide it between the siding and the building paper at the top of the opening. Do not nail the drip edge. Apply several thick beads of silicone caulk to the subfloor at the bottom of the door opening. Also apply silicone caulk over the building paper on the front edges of the jack studs and header. Center the door unit in the rough opening, and push the brick molding tight against the sheathing. Have a helper hold the door unit steady until it is nailed in place.

From inside, place pairs of hardwood wedge shims together to form flat shims, and insert shims into the gaps between the door jambs and framing members. Insert shims at the lockset and hinge locations and every 12" thereafter. Adjust the shims, if needed, until the door unit is plumb and level. From outside, drive 10d casing nails through the door jambs and into the framing members at each shim location. Use a nail set to drive the nail heads below the surface of the wood.

Remove the retaining brackets installed by the manufacturer, then open and close the door to make sure it works right. Remove two of the screws on the top hinge and replace them with long anchor screws (usually included with the unit). These anchor screws will penetrate into the framing members to strengthen the installation. Anchor brick molding to the framing members with 10d galvanized casing nails driven every 12". Adjust the door threshold to create a tight seal, following manufacturer's recommendations.