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Painting, painting contractors, faux painting, matching, removing old paint, paint burning, brush painting, roller painting, scaffold building, ladders, strip wood, heat gun, master artistry, chemical stripper, paint brush, latex wood patch, priming, primer, latex-based primer, alkyd-based primer, rollers, fire damage and insurance damage, restoration.  Painting

  << Painting  -  Price List and Glossary of Terms.

A.  General Information.
B.  Build a scaffold.
C.  Remove old paint.
D.  Brush painting.
E.  Roller painting.

Paint Quantity Estimator
Small Room
small room
Walls 1 Gal.
Trim* 1 Qt.
Doors 1 Qt.
Ceiling 1 Qt.
Medium Room
medium room
Walls 2 Gal.
Trim* 1 Gal.
Doors 1 Qt.
Ceiling 1 Gal.
Large Room
large room
Walls 3 Gal.
Trim* 1 Gal.
Doors 1 Qt.
Ceiling 2 Gal.
*Includes baseboard, door trim and window trim.
Paint estimates depend on many factors. The above estimates are based on a one coat application. Depending on the surface and texture, more than one coat may be required.

A.  General Information
         The key to a successful paint job is careful attention to details. You need a stepladder that will be comfortable to paint on. If you're painting large, high surfaces, use a scaffold. You also have to pay attention to safety. Read the labels of all removal chemicals, primers, and paints for use and disposal instructions.

B.  Build a scaffold
         Run the plank through the steps of the two stepladders. To build a scaffold, you need two quality stepladders and an extension plank. Arrange the stepladders so they face each other with the steps to the inside. Make sure the ladder braces are locked, then run the plank through the steps of the two stepladders.



To build a scaffold on a stairway, you only need one stepladder. Run the extension plank through a step of the ladder, and place the other end on a stairway step. Run the extension plank through a step of the ladder, and place the other end on a stairway step. Adjust the scaffold so the plank is close to the wall. Make sure the ladder is steady, and check to see that the plank is level before stepping onto the platform.


Open doors and windows and use a fan for ventilation. Use a respirator mask if you can't ventilate the work area. Buy only as much as is needed for the project and store them away from children. Paints come in several sheens. Paint finishes range from flat to high-gloss enamels. Gloss enamels dry to a shiny finish and are used for surfaces that will be washed often, like bathrooms, kitchens, and woodwork. Flat paints have a nongloss finish and are used for most wall and ceiling applications. Check the label to make sure the coverage is about 400 square feet per gallon. Always use a good primer over new surfaces before painting.

C.  Remove old paint
         Hold the heat gun near the wood until the paint softens and just begins to blister. Remove the softened paint with a scraper or putty knife. Removing Old Paint : To strip wood with a heat gun, hold the heat gun near the wood until the paint softens and just begins to blister. Overheating can make the paint gummy, or scorch the wood. Remove the softened paint with a scraper or putty knife. Sand away any remaining paint residue.


Apply a liberal coat of stripper to the surface. Rub the stripped wood with denatured alcohol and steel wool to help clean the grain. To strip wood with a chemical stripper, apply a liberal coat of stripper to the surface, using a paintbrush or steel wool. Let it stand until the paint begins to blister. Scrape away the paint with a putty knife, scraper, or steel wool. Rub the stripped wood with denatured alcohol and steel wool to help clean the grain. Then wipe the wood with a wet sponge or cloth dampened with solvent, as directed on the stripper label.

To prepare a wood surface for painting, wash it with a TSP solution, then rinse it clean with a sponge and water. Scrape away any peeling or loose paint. Strip badly chipped woodwork. Use a putty knife to apply latex wood patch or spackle to any nail holes, dents, or other damaged areas. Allow the compound to dry. Sand the surfaces with 150-grit sandpaper until they're smooth to the touch. Wipe the surface with a tack rag before priming and painting. For fast, mess-free painting, shield any surfaces that could get splattered. Remove lightweight furniture and move heavier pieces to the center of the room and cover them with plastic. Cover the floors with 9-ounce canvas drop cloths that will absorb paint splatters. For professional-quality results, sand the surfaces with 150-grit sandpaper and a pad sander. Wipe dust from sanded surfaces with a tack rag. For woodwork, remove the dust with a tack rag, then apply a liquid deglosser with a clean cloth. Vacuum dust from windowsills and window tracks. Before painting, clean the room to eliminate dust that might settle on wet paint. If you're painting woodwork, clean, patch, and strip the wood as needed. To avoid shadowing, spot-prime these areas with a PVA primer Use a long-nap roller to apply the primer and the finish coat. Apply an alkyd- or latex- based primer to all bare wood and patched areas. Patched areas and wallboard seems that have been treated with patching material or wallboard compound can absorb paint at a different rate than the surrounding areas, and often show or "shadow" through the finished paint. To avoid shadowing, spot-prime these areas with a PVA primer. Seal textured surfaces, like ceilings, with a PVA or alkyd primer. Use a long-nap roller to apply the primer and the finish coat.

D.  Brush painting
         Painting with a brush is a three-step process: The paint is applied, distributed, and then smoothed out. Start by dipping the brush directly into the can, loading one-third of the bristle length. Tap the bristles against the side of the can. Use the narrow edge of the brush to cut in the edges. Brush the wall corners, using the wide edge of the brush. Paint large areas with two or three diagonal strokes. Smooth off the surface by drawing the brush vertically from top to bottom. Use the narrow edge of the brush to cut in the edges, pressing just enough to flex the bristles. Brush the wall corners, using the wide edge of the brush. Paint the open areas inside the cut-in edges before the brushed paint dries. Paint large areas with two or three diagonal strokes. Hold the brush at a 45 degree angle, pressing just enough to flex the bristles. Distribute the paint with horizontal strokes. Smooth off the surface by drawing the brush vertically from top to bottom. Use light strokes and lift the brush from the surface at the end of each stroke.

E.  Roller painting
         Painting with a roller is also a three-step process in which the paint is applied, distributed, and smoothed. First, you need to remove lint and open the roller fibers by priming the roller cover with water (when painting with latex) or mineral spirits (when painting with alkyd paint). Make an upward diagonal sweep Draw the roller straight down from the top of the diagonal sweep. Squeeze the excess liquid from the roller, then fill the paint tray reservoir with paint. To load the roller, dip it fully into the reservoir. Using a back-and-forth motion, roll the roller over the textured ramp to distribute paint evenly on the nap. The roller should be full, but not dripping. Make an upward diagonal sweep about 4 feet long on the surface. Use slow strokes to avoid splattering. Draw the roller straight down from the top of the diagonal sweep.
Distribute the paint over the section with horizontal back-and-forth strokes. Smooth off the area by lightly drawing the roller vertically from top to bottom.      Move the roller to the beginning of the diagonal and roll up to complete the unloading of the roller. Distribute the paint over the section with horizontal back-and-forth strokes. Smooth off the area by lightly drawing the roller vertically from top to bottom. Lift the roller and return it to the top of the area after each stroke.