A. General Information
A typical property will have several types of electrical receptacles. Although the majority of them are for standard use, some may be designed to accept certain kinds of plugs and fulfill a specific purpose.
Standard receptacles are usually rated at 125 volts, 15 or 20 amps.
Higher voltage receptacles and higher amperage receptacles are required for a specific use (and can also be know as "dedicated receptacles"). These specific use receptacles are needed to provide power to larger appliances, air conditioners, electric dryers, commercial equipment, etc. Their slots have distinctive shapes that will not accept a standard plug rated for 125 volts. The wiring and circuit breaker that supplies the power to them must also match the specific use.
 | Standard Receptacles |
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| High-Voltage Receptacles |
 | GFI Receptacles |
GFI receptacles always have a test and reset button. Although they are meant for standard use, they are required by code for areas that may be hazardous. They should always be found in locations where one could come in contact with water such as: bathroom, kitchen, outside, basement, etc. This is because they are meant to shut down immediately before you can get an electric shock from the item plugged in. Press your test your button to be sure!
B. Replacement of an Electrical Receptacle, Switch or Dimmer
To replace a receptacle, switch or dimmer (also referred to as devices) at an existing outlet box, we recommend that you make the purchases first, and have them ready for installation when you're ready to remove the old ones. Making the correct purchase is most important. Installing an incorrect device will create hazards and damages. Also, do not attempt this job without a working voltage tester.
| STEP 1. Be sure the power is turned off to that circuit (or shut all power off). |
| STEP 2. To begin removing the existing device(s), remove the wall plate and test for voltage first. Then remove the two mounting screws and pull the existing device forward as far as the wires will reach. |
STEP 3. Take notice of all the wiring connections to the existing device before removing them (colored wires, screw connections, wire nut connections, etc). Also take notice of the colored screws (dark, silver, brass, green, etc.). Correct wiring is very important! Then cut the wires off close to the device or loosen the screws to remove the wires. Other wires in the outlet box do not matter and should be left alone. NOTE - If the existing wires have an insulation cover that is crumbling apart, an electrician should be brought in to complete this job! |
| STEP 4. Make the wiring connections to the new device. Strip the wire insulation back 1/2" to 3/4". Wire always wraps around a screw clockwise. Dimmer wires should be connected with spring insert type wire nuts. Make sure all connections are tight! (More trouble calls are due to loose connections than any other reason). Wrapping electrical tape around the device to cover the screws can be a good idea. It can provide temporary safety if the cover plate is to remain off during a painting or wall repair job. |
Some Helpful Tips
- 3-way switch - odd color screw wire (from old device) to odd color screw (on new device) the other two wires do not matter.
- Standard dimmer - wire colors do not matter (unless it's a 3-way dimmer).
- Standard switch - wire colors do not matter.
- Standard receptacle - light colored screws connect to the white wire(s), dark colored screws connect to the black wire(s).
- G.F.I. Receptacle - same as a standard receptacle but watch out for the "load" connection (input power does not get connected to the load or output side of a G.F.I. receptacle).
| STEP 5. Grounding a device properly is your responsibility. Metal boxes should be grounded and devices should be grounded (your voltage tester will be used to test the ground when the power is turned back on). |
| STEP 6. Folding the wires back into the wall outlet box should be done with care. Some wall outlet boxes may lack space due to other wires and other wire nuts. Also take notice that the ground wire does not come close to any screws on a switch or receptacle (instant short circuit). Make sure that the device can freely touch the wall surface (top & bottom) without crushing the wires inside. |
| STEP 7. Install the two screws and turn the power on. Test the device for polarity and grounding with your voltage tester (the voltage should be the same from "hot to ground as neutral to ground). Install the wall plate. |
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C. When you need an electrician.
A handy person can usually perform some of the simple electrical jobs. We want to stress the importance that all electrical jobs must be done mechanically correct and according to the local codes. Incorrect electrical work is very common. Most folks try to save money by doing it themselves but, at the same time they may create situations that are costly to cure. We always recommend hiring a licensed electrical contractor. Here are some things you should know -
- 3-way Switch - is double operation switching for lighting from two or more locations. If you confuse the wiring you may never make it work right. This is the most common error made by a non-electrician.
- Very Old Receptacles or Switches - If the existing devices are older then yourself, you won't want to deal with them. The photos of receptacles (on the right) have very old wires inside, they are short and fragile!
- Aluminum Wiring - All work dealing with aluminum wiring and/or cables must be performed by an electrical contractor. Please don't try it.
- Electrical Problems - Replacing switches and/or receptacles usually will not solve electrical problems, unless you feel certain the problem is limited to that device only.
- New Wiring Installations - Any new wiring installations and/or electrical service work should always be performed by an electrician. Your safety and property are at stake!
- Understanding the Do-It-Yourself Instructions - If any of the instructions on this page are unclear to you - Call an electrical contractor.
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| Old Receptacles |
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Around Philly Trades and Service Directories for:
Abington 19001,
Aldan 19018,
Ambler 19002,
Ardmore 19003,
Aston 19014,
Bala Cynwyd 19004,
Bensalem 19020,
Berwyn 19312,
Blue Bell 19422,
Bridgeport 19405,
Brookhaven 19015,
Broomall 19008,
Bryn Mawr 19010,
Chadds Ford 19317,
Cheltenham 19012,
Chester City,
Chesterbrook 19406,
Chester Heights 19017,
Clifton Heights 19018,
Concordville 19331,
Conshohocken 19428,
Darby 19023,
Devon 19333,
Dresher 19025,
Drexel Hill 19026,
Eddystone ,
Edgemont 19028,
Folcroft 19032,
Gladwyn 19035,
Glen Mills 19342,
Glenolden 19036,
Havertown 19083,
Huntingdon Valley 19006,
Jenkintown 19046,
King of Prussia 19406,
Lafayette Hill 19444,
Lansdowne 19050,
Lima 19037,
Malvern 19355,
Marcus Hook 19061,
Media 19063,
Morton 19070,
Narberth 19072,
Newtown Square 19073,
Norwood 19074,
Norristown 19403 and 19404,
Paoli 19301,
Plymouth Meeting 19462,
Prospect Park 19076,
Ridley Park 19078,
Ridley Township 19094, 19043, 19033, 19022, 19081, 19078, 19070,
Springfield 19064,
Swarthmore 19081,
Upper Darby 19082,
Valley Forge 19481,
Wayne 19087,
West Chester 19380
Delaware County, Montgomery County and Philadelphia |
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