A. General Information
Sinks usually last for many years, but their finishes get worn and they can crack or chip. You can replace a damaged sink yourself, but a kitchen sink made from solid-surface material or porcelain should be installed by a professional.
B. Replacing a Sink
If you have a kitchen sink that you need to remove, first turn off the water, either at the shutoff valves or the main supply valve located near the water meter.
Use a basin wrench to remove the coupling nuts connecting the supply tube to the faucet tailpieces. If the supply tubes are soldered, use a hacksaw to cut them off above the shutoff valves. If the sink is connected to a disposal and dishwasher, disconnect them.
Place a bucket beneath the P-trap, loosen the slip nuts at both ends, and remove the trap. If you can't turn the nuts, use a hacksaw to cut out the trap.
Use a utility knife to cut through any caulk or sealant between the sink rim and the countertop.
Carefully lift the sink off the countertop and set it aside. If you plan to reuse the faucet, remove it from the sink now.
If you have a bathroom sink that has to be removed, first turn off the water supply and disconnect the plumbing. If there are shutoff valves, close them. If the supply tubes are soldered, cut them above the shutoff valves. If you have no shutoff valves, turn off the water at the main supply valve, and add shutoff valves when installing the new sink. Methods of removal vary a little bit for different styles of sinks.
For installing a drop-in sink, measure the existing countertop cutout and buy a sink that fits or is slightly larger than the current opening. If the opening has to be enlarged, or if the countertop is being replaced along with the sink, draw and cut out a cardboard template ½" narrower than the sink rim. To make or enlarge the cutout, drill a 3/8" starter hole, then use a jig saw to cut around the template. Apply a ring of plumber's putty around the cutout. Attach the faucet body to the sink or countertop, depending on the sink style. Install the drainpiece, the drain flange, and the pop-up drain assembly.
Set the sink into the opening and embed it in the plumber's putty. Connect the drain and water supply fittings, then caulk around the rim.
If you're installing a wall-mounted sink in a new location, you'll need to provide additional wall support. To do this, cut away the wallboard and endnail a 2 x 8 between the studs. Position the 2 x 8 directly behind the location where you plan to attach the hanger bracket. Most people find a height between 30" and 38" from the floor to be most comfortable. Replace the wallboard and finish its surface. Attach the hanger bracket, following manufacturer's directions.
Attach the drain flange and faucet to the sink and lower the fixture onto the bracket. Check the sink for level and make any adjustments needed. Secure any additional fasteners that were provided with the sink. Connect supply lines to the faucet by tightening the coupling nuts. Attach the drain flange to the trap and drain lines with channel-type pliers. Connect the drain stopper and pivot rod to the clevis. Apply tub and tile caulk along the joint between the sink and the wall.
After replacing or installing a new sink, you'll need to connect it to the drain lines. If the drain hookups are being replaced, use plastic piping if your local Code allows it. Begin by installing a sink strainer in each sink drain opening. Apply a ¼" bead of plumber's putty around the bottom of the strainer flange. Then, insert the strainer into the drain opening. Place the rubber and fiber washers over the neck of the strainer. Screw a locknut onto the strainer neck and tighten it with channel-type pliers.
Next, attach the drain tailpiece to the strainer. Begin by checking the length of the tailpiece. If needed, you can cut it to length, using a hacksaw. Slide a slipnut onto the tailpiece so the threads face the flanged side of the tailpiece. Place an insert washer in the flared end of the tailpiece. Attach the tailpiece by screwing the slip nut onto the sink strainer by hand.
If your sink has two basins, next you'll need to attach a continuous waste T-fitting. The continuous waste T-fitting joins the tailpieces for each basin and funnels the drain water to a single trap arm. Position a slip nut and slip washer on the end of each tailpiece, so the beveled side of the washer faces down, then attach the T-fitting by screwing the slip nut down onto it.
Now, attach the trap arm to the drain stubout, using a slip nut and washer. Again, slide a slip nut and beveled washer onto the arm, then insert the arm into the drain stubout and tighten the slip nut down onto it. If needed, use a hacksaw to cut the trap arm to fit.
Finally, attach the trap bend, using slip nuts and washers. Tighten all the nuts with channel-type pliers, then run water to check for leaks.
C. Leaky Faucet - Ball faucets
The most common plumbing problem is a leaky faucet. Most faucet problems are easy to fix.
Ball faucets have a single handle and can be identified by a hollow metal or plastic ball inside the faucet body.
If a faucet with this type of cap leaks from the spout, try tightening the cap with channel-type pliers. If that doesn't work, take the faucet apart and inspect it. Look for worn-out valve seats, springs, or a damaged ball. Leaks around the base of the faucet are usually caused by worn O-rings.
Faucet managers offer several types of replacement kits for ball faucets. To fix a Ball faucet, start by turning off the water at the shutoff valves or the main supply valve near the water meter. Loosen the handle setscrew with an Allen wrench. Remove the handle, exposing the faucet cap. Remove the faucet cap with channel-type pliers.
Lift out the faucet cam, cam washer, and the ball. Check the ball for sign of wear.
D. Cartridge faucets
Cartridge faucets can be identified by a cylindrical metal or plastic cartridge inside the faucet body.
Cartridges come in many styles, so bring yours with you to compare when shopping for a new one. For fixing a cartridge faucet, first turn off the water at the shutoff valves or the main supply valve near the water meter.
Pry off the index cap on top of the faucet and remove the handle screw underneath the cap. Remove the faucet handle by lifting it up and tilting it backward.
Remove the threaded retaining ring, using channel-type pliers. Remove any retaining clip holding the cartridge in place.
Grip the top of the cartridge with channel-type pliers. Pull straight up to remove the cartridge. Install the replacement cartridge in the same position as the old one. Remove the spout by pulling up and twisting. Use a utility knife to cut off the old O-rings. Coat the new O-rings with heatproof grease and install. Reattach the spout. Screw the retaining ring onto the faucet and tighten with channel-type pliers. Attach the handle, handle screw, and index cap. Turn the faucet on. Slowly open the shutoff valves to restore the water. Check for leaks and tighten connections as needed.
E. Leaky Faucet - Compression faucets
Compression faucets have separate handles for hot and cold water, and can be identified by a threaded stem assembly inside the faucet body. When fixing a compression faucet, turn off the water at the shutoff valves or the main supply valve. Remove the index cap from the top of the handle and unfasten the screw. Remove the handle by pulling straight up. If a handle won't pull free, clamp the side bars of a handle puller under the handle. Thread the puller into the faucet stem, and tighten until the handle comes free. Unscrew the stem assembly from the body of the faucet, using channel-type pliers.
Inspect the valve seat for wear and replace or resurface it, if needed. If the faucet body or stems are badly worn, replace the entire faucet. Remove the brass stem screw from the stem. Remove the worn stem washer.
Unscrew the threaded spindle from the retaining nut. Cut off and replace the O-ring with an exact duplicate. If the faucet has packing string instead of an O-ring, wrap new packing string around the stem, just beneath the packing or retaining nut. Install a new washer and stem screw. Coat all parts with heatproof grease. Reassemble the faucet.
