<< Carpentry and Cabinets  -  Price List and Glossary of Terms.

A.  General Information
         A wooden staircase starts with two or more solid boards lying diagonally from one floor to the next. These boards are called "stringers" (or carriages). They are usually 2" x 12" size lumber and they are the supports for the steps of the staircase. The stringers are either cut in a saw-tooth pattern, giving support from under steps, or they have grooves cut into their faces that receive the ends of the steps - known as "housed" stringers. Every step in a staircase has two parts: the "tread" which is the horizontal board that you walk on, and the "riser" which is the vertical board linking each pair of treads. They are joined with grooved joints or simple butt joints. Both parts are nailed to the stringers or, with the housed stringer, held tightly in the stringer grooves by wedges driven from the underside of the staircase. The "balustrade" consists of the railing, the newels, and the balusters. The newels are the big posts supporting the railing. Between the newels, the balusters support railing from each stair tread. "Fillets" are thin pieces of wood that give support between square balusters.

B.  Squeaky Steps and Loose Balustrades
         It will help you a lot in repairing if you know the type of staircase you have. If you have access to the underside of staircase, start investigation there. You can note the location and design of supporting stringers and their general health and examine the joints between the stair treads and risers. From the top side of the staircase, peek under carpet or remove molding to find how your stair parts are fitted together. The usual stair problems are squeaky steps and loose balustrades. If it's possible, fix squeaky steps from underneath staircase so you won't have to hide repairs. Glue wood blocks to joints between treads and risers with construction adhesive. When they're in place, drill pilot holes and fasten them to treads and risers with screws. Fill gaps between stair parts with tapered hardwood shims. Put wood glue on shims and tap them into joints until they're snug. Drill pilot holes and drive screws through treads and into risers.

If you can't repair from underside you can stop noisy steps from above with screws, shims or molding. Drill pilot holes and drive screws through treads and into risers. You can cover screws by filling holes with putty or wood plugs. Tap glued shims under loose treads and when glue dries, cut shims flush with a utility knife. You can use quarter-round molding and finish nails to support joints between treads and risers.

C.  Reinforce Loose Balusters
         Reinforce loose balusters with screws and replace loose fillet spacers between balusters. Begin by chiseling out fillets between loose balusters and pull any loose nails. Where fillets are removed, support lower side of baluster with a clamp tightened to the railing. Drive a screw through the baluster and into railing. Cut new fillets to fit tightly between balusters and test fit each one before attaching it. Then apply glue and clamp fillets in place. Drill pilot holes and drive finish nails with a tack hammer to secure fillets to railing.

Railings connect to newel posts or other sections of railing by being secured internally with special hanger bolt hardware and glue. The threaded metal shaft of the hanger bolt has a half with coarse threads and a half with machine threads. The coarse end is driven into one piece of railing or the newel post, and the machine end is inserted in a hole drilled into the end of the other railing piece. To get access to the machine threads, drill a large hole up through the bottom of the railing and tighten a star nut to the shaft to pull the pieces together. This access hole is covered by a wood plug. If these connections become loose and gaps show between railing parts, clean and reglue the joints and tighten the hanger bolts. First, find the plug in the access hole under the railing. Take out plug by drilling several holes with a ¼ inch bit, trying to avoid the hardware. Knock out the plug with a small chisel. Loosen star nut by tapping the points with a nail set or screwdriver and a hammer. Do not completely unscrew the star nut from the bolt. Scrape off old glue and any dirt using a chisel, sandpaper, or a piece of wire. Apply a thin layer of wood glue to both surfaces, using a string to spread the glue. To close the joint, tighten the star nut by tapping the points in the opposite direction. Make a replacement plug by cutting a thin section from a wood dowel that matches the railing and has the same diameter as the access hole. Glue the plug in place and sand it flush with the surface.

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