A. General Information
A standard toilet is a simple device, and only minor adjustments are needed to resolve most common problems. When you push the handle, the lift chain or lift wire raises a rubber seal, which is called either a flapper or a tank ball. Water in the tank rushes down through the flush valve opening, in the bottom of the tank, into the toilet bowl. Waste water in the bowl is forced through the trap into the main drain. When the toilet tank is empty, the flapper seals the tank, and a water supply valve, called a ballcock, refills the toilet tank. The ballcock is controlled by a float ball that rides on the surface of the water. When the tank is full, the float ball automatically shuts off the ballcock.
As one of the biggest users of water in your house, the toilet can offer substantial water savings. Older toilets use 5 to 7 gallons of water per flush, while new low-flow toilets use no more than 1.6 gallons per flush.
B. If a Handle Sticks
If a handle sticks, clean its mounting nut, which has reversed threads. Loosen it by turning clockwise. Remove lime buildup by scrubbing the parts with a brush dipped in vinegar. If a toilet won't flush or doesn't flush completely, the lift chain may have too much slack or may be broken. Replace it or adjust it so it hangs straight with about ½" of slack.
On toilets with lift wires instead of chains, a bent lift wire can cause the handle to stick. Straighten the wires so they operate smoothly.
C. Adjusting the ballcock lets you raise or lower the water level in the tank.
There are four ballcock styles and adjustment methods.
plunger-valve ballcock
A traditional plunger-valve ballcock controls the flow of water with a brass plunger attached to the float arm and ball.
To raise the water level, bend the float arm up. To lower it, bend the float arm down slightly.
diaphragm ballcock
A diaphragm ballcock is made of plastic and has a wide bonnet with a rubber diaphragm. To raise the tank water level, turn the water level control screw counterclockwise. To lower it, turn the control screw clockwise.
float cup ballcock
A float cup ballcock is also made of plastic and is easy to adjust. To raise the water level, pinch the spring clip on the pull rod, and move the float cup upward on the ballcock shank. To lower the water level, move the cup downward.
floatless ballcock
A floatless ballcock controls the water level with a pressure-sensing device. To raise the water level, turn the adjustment screw clockwise, ½ turn at a time. To lower it, turn the screw counterclockwise.
D. Replacing the ballcock
If water continues to run into the overflow pipe after adjusting the ballcock, or if the ballcock is badly worn, it's time for a new one. Shut off the water and flush the toilet to empty the tank. Remove any remaining water with a sponge. Disconnect the supply tube coupling nut and the ballcock mounting nut, using an adjustable wrench.
Remove the old ballcock. Loosen the shank lock ring on the new ballcock. Adjust the shank until the top of the ballcock is an inch from the top of the tank, providing adequate clearance. Retighten the shank lock ring until it locks in place. Attach a cone washer to the new ballcock tailpiece and insert the tailpiece into the tank opening.
Line up the float arm socket so the float arm passes behind the overflow pipe. Screw the float arm onto the ballcock.
Screw the float ball onto the float arm. Bend or clip the refill tube so the tip fits inside the overflow pipe. Screw the mounting nut and supply tube coupling nut onto the ballcock tailpiece, then tighten them. Turn on the water and check for leaks.
Adjust the water level in the tank by adjusting the ballcock. The water level should be about ½ inch below the overflow pipe.
E. Replacing the wax ring
The connection between the toilet and the floor drain is sealed with a thick ring of wax. As the wax ages, it can dry out, crumble, or crack, which can break the seal and cause leaks. If a wax ring leaks, you can remove and replace it. This job isn't very hard, but it can be messy; you should have plenty of rags handy. Turn off the water at the shut-off valve and flush the toilet to empty the tank. Use a sponge to soak up any water remaining in the tank and bowl. Disconnect the supply tube, using an adjustable wrench.
Remove the nuts from the tank bolts, using a ratchet wrench. Carefully remove the tank and set it aside. If you intend to reinstall it, treat it with care; most toilet tanks are porcelain, which is easily damaged. Pry off the floor bolt trim caps at the base of the toilet, using a screwdriver. Use an adjustable wrench to remove the nuts from the floor bolts.
Straddle the toilet and rock the bowl from side to side, until the seal breaks. Carefully lift the toilet off the floor bolts and set it on its side.
Water might spill from the toilet trap as you remove the toilet. Wear rubber gloves while cleaning up this water and cleaning the toilet and flange. Scrape the old wax from the toilet flange in the floor, using a putty knife. Plug the drain opening with a damp rag, so that sewer gas doesn't escape from the drainpipe into the house. If you're reinstalling the old toilet, clean the old wax and plumbers putty from around the horn and base of the toilet.
To install a new toilet, turn the toilet base upside down and place a new wax ring over the drain horn.
Press the ring firmly in place. If there's a paper cover on the bottom of the wax, remove it. Make sure the floor bolts in the toilet flange are straight and the flange is clean. Remove the rag from the drain hole. Position the toilet over the flange so the floor bolts are aligned with the openings in the base of the toilet. Press down firmly on the toilet base, slightly twisting it from side to side, to compress the wax ring and form a tight seal.
Thread the washers and nuts onto the floor bolts. Tighten them with an adjustable wrench, just until they're snug.
Cover the nuts with trim caps. Do not overtighten these nuts; this can cause the toilet base to crack. Carefully turn the tank upside down and place a soft spud washer over the flush valve tailpiece. Turn the tank right side up and position it on the rear of the toilet base, so that the spud washer is centered over the water inlet opening. Line up the tank bolt holes with the holes in the base of the toilet. Slide the rubber washers onto the tank bolts and insert the bolts into the holes.
Working from underneath the tank, thread washers and nuts onto the bolts.
Tighten the nuts with a ratchet wrench until the tank is snug. Again, use caution when tightening the nuts to avoid cracking the tank. Most toilet tanks rest on the spud washer rather than directly on the toilet base. Attach the water supply tube to the ballcock tailpiece, using an adjustable wrench. Turn on the water, let the tank fill, and test the toilet. Flush several times and check for leaks around the tank bolts and water connections. Tighten any leaky connections, if needed. Install the toilet seat by inserting the seat bolts into the mounting holes in the toilet. Attach mounting nuts to the seat bolts, and tighten them. Apply silicone sealant around the base of the toilet to create a watertight seal.
