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Seeding, sodding, fertilizing, pruning, mulches, top soil, spring & fall cleanups, landscape design & hardscaping,
new lawn, unwanted plants, compost.
A. General Information.
B. Prepare for a Completely New Lawn.
C. How to Patch Bare Areas with Seed.
D. How to Patch Bare Areas with Sod.
E. How to Patch Bare Areas with Sprigs or Plugs. |
A. General Information
If you are putting in a completely new lawn or just maintaining your existing lawn, you should always pay attention to the factors that affect the way your grass will grow. You need to think about how much sun and shade the grass will be getting. Consider poor drainage, wind, and heat stress when picking varieties of grass. Think about how much maintenance you can handle; low, medium, or high. Think about the cost of everything. A low-maintenance lawn is better for a smaller cost.
If you want your lawn to be thicker, greener, more fine bladed, and more vigorous and stress tolerant, the solution is to reseed it with new, improved variety. You don't exactly have to dig up your old lawn, just overseed the existing grass with new seeds. First you have to analyze the condition of your current lawn. If it has less than 50 percent good grass, the best thing to do is remove it all and start over. But, if more than 50 percent is strong, overseeding is a good option. Try to figure out what made the existing grass weak; shade, drought, insects? Then you can pick the kind of grass that prevents those problems. Now, pick the right time for germination. Fall is best for cool-season turfgrasses and spring is best for warm-season grasses.
B. Prepare for a Completely New Lawn
It is important to make sure the seeds can make contact with the soil. Start by mowing the lawn as short as possible. Rake up the clippings, then mow and rake again. Then, take a metal garden rake and scratch the soil vigorously. Since you are not sowing into bare ground, you have to sow seed at two to three times the amount recommended on the package. Then cover the seed with a ¼- to ½- inch layer of topsoil, like finely ground compost. Water daily until the seed germinates. Let the new seedlings grow to the maximum cutting height, then mow, taking off no more than one-third of their height.
C. How to Patch Bare Areas with Seed
It is important to make sure the seeds can make contact with the soil. Start by mowing the lawn as short as possible. Rake up the clippings, then mow and rake again. Then, take a metal garden rake and scratch the soil vigorously. Since you're not sowing into bare ground, you have to sow seed at two to three times the amount recommended on the package. Then cover the seed with a ¼- to ½- inch layer of topsoil, like finely ground compost. Water daily until the seed germinates. Let the new seedlings grow to the maximum cutting height, then mow, taking off no more than one-third of their height.
D. How to Patch Bare Areas with Sod
If most of your lawn is in good condition, but there are just a few bad spots, like a weedy patch or a bare area, you can just patch that area with sod.
First of all, find out what the underlying problem is so it doesn't happen again. A weedy patch may be from soil compaction. Thin areas could be from shade, poor drainage, or lack of regular feeding. Heavy traffic or frequent use makes bare areas. A patch of yellow might be from gasoline, herbicide, or fertilizer spills, or from the family dog. To reduce compaction, aerate the soil. If you can't trim shrubs and trees to reduce shade, sow a shade-tolerant seed blend. For chemical spills, flush the soil well with water.
Now you need to completely remove the existing grass or weed cover in the area.
Then square off the area and enlarge it about 6 inches beyond the problem
itself. Prepare the soil as thoroughly as if you were planting a new lawn.
Rototill it to a depth of 6 inches, removing any weed roots or rhizomes or any
other debris, like rocks or tree roots, in the soil. If the soil is sand or
heavy clay, add inches of compost or other organic matter and thoroughly mix it
into the soil. Rake the surface level, then water well. If you're repairing the
patch with seed, sow it at the recommended rate, then rake to cover with a thin
layer of soil. In hot, dry weather, also cover the seed with a light layer of
weed-free mulch. Keep the soil moist until the seed germinates. After it
germinates, leave the grass unmown until it reaches its maximum recommended
height.
The fastest way to patch a lawn is with sod. Cut the sod to match the prepared area, then lay it so its edges touch those of the existing grass. Firm the sod into the soil. Apply a special starter fertilizer and water thoroughly. Watch the new grass closely. The edges of the sod strip will be the first places to dry out and may need daily watering. Make sure the underlying soil stays moist for at least the first two weeks.
E. How to Patch Bare Areas with Sprigs or Plugs
Some grasses are available as sprigs or plugs. Sprigs are small pieces of grass plants with crowns and roots. Plugs are small, round patches of sod about 2 to 4 inches in diameter. Depending on species, sprigs are planted 4 to 12 inches apart, and plugs 6 to 12 inches apart. But, for patching, spacing them closer together will let them fill in bare spots faster. Before planting them, prepare soil as usual. Take extra care after planting. Keep the soil evenly moist (but not soaked through) for about a month to let the roots become established. You also have to keep the bare area between the sprigs or plugs weed free until the new grass has completely covered the bare ground.
Landscaping Glossary of Terms
| acid soil |
Soil with a pH lower than 7.0
is an acid soil. Soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline, pH is a measure of the
amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil. |
| aerate |
Loosening or puncturing the
soil to increase water penetration. |
| alkaline soil |
A soil with a pH higher than
7.0 is an alkaline soil. (lower than 7.0 is acidic) |
| annuals |
Plants whose life cycle lasts
only one year, from seed to blooms to seed. |
| arboretum |
A garden with a large
collection of trees and shrubs cultivated for scientific or educational
purposes. |
| Aquatic plants |
Plants which grow in, live in,
or live on the water. |
| bedding plant |
Plants (mainly annuals),
nursery grown and suitable for growing in beds. Quick, colorful flowers. |
| biennial |
A plant that usually only lives
two years, normally producing flowers and seed the second year. |
| bonsai |
The art of growing carefully
trained, dwarf plants in containers. |
| botanical name |
The Latin or "scientific" name
of a plant, usually composed of two words, the genus and the species. |
| bract |
Modified leaves growing just
below a flower. Often confused with the flower itself. |
| bud |
Early stages of development of
a flower or plant growth. |
| bulb |
The thickened underground
storage organ of the group of perennials which includes daffodils and
tulips. |
| cambium |
The thin membrane located just
beneath the bark of a plant. |
| chlorophyll |
The green pigment in leaves.
When present and healthy usually dominates all other pigments. |
| complete fertilizer |
A plant food which contains all
three of the primary elements... nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. |
| compost |
An organic soil amendment
resulting from the decomposition of organic matter. |
| corm |
A thickened underground stem
which produces roots, leaves and flowers during the growing season. |
| cover crop |
A crop which is planted in the
absence of the normal crop to control weeds and add humus to the soil when
it is plowed in prior to regular planting. |
| crown |
The point at which a plants
roots and top join. (usually at soil level) |
| cultivate |
Process of breaking up the soil
surface, removing weeds, and preparing for planting. |
| cuttings |
A method of propagation using
sections of stems, roots or leaves. |
| damping off |
A fungus, usually affecting
seedlings and causes the stem to rot off at soil level. Sterilized potting
soil and careful sanitation practices usually prevent this. |
| dead head |
The process of pinching off
used or spent blooms to keep the plants well groomed and to prevent them
from setting seed. This will promote continued bloom. |
| dibble stick |
A pointed tool used to make
holes in the soil for seeds, bulbs, or young plants. |
| de-thatch |
Process of removing dead stems
that build up beneath lawn grasses. |
| dividing |
The process of splitting up
plants, roots and all that have began to get bound together. This will make
several plants from one plant, and usually should be done to mature
perennials every 3 to 4 years. |
| dormancy |
The yearly cycle in a plants
life when growth slows and the plant rests. Fertilizing should be withheld
when a plant is in dormancy. |
| double digging |
Preparing the soil by
systematically digging an area to the depth of two shovels. |
| double flower |
A flower with many overlapping
petals which gives it a very full appearance. |
| drip line |
The circle which would exist if
you drew a line below the tips of the outer most branches of a tree or
plant. |
| epiphyte |
A plant which grows on another
plant but gets its nourishment from the air and rainfall. They do no damage
to the host plant. |
| erosion |
The wearing away, washing away,
or removal of soil by wind, water or man. |
| espalier |
Process of training a tree or
shrub so its branches grow in a flat pattern. |
| evergreen |
A plant which never loses all
of it's leaves at one time. |
| eye |
An undeveloped bud growth which
will ultimately produce new growth. |
| evaporation |
Process by which water returns
to the air. Higher temperatures speed the process of evaporation. |
| fertilizer |
Organic or inorganic plant
foods which may be either liquid or granular used to amend the soil in order
to improve the quality or quantity of plant growth. |
| flat |
A shallow box or tray used to
start cuttings or seedlings. |
| foliar feeding |
Fertilizer applied in liquid
form to the plants foliage in a fine spray. |
| forcing |
The process of hastening a
plants growth to maturity or bloom. |
| frost |
The condensation and freezing
of moisture in the air. Tender plants will suffer extensive damage or die
when exposed to frost. |
| germinate |
The process of the sprouting of
a seed. |
| girdling |
The choking of a branch by a
wire or other material, most often in the stems of woody plants that have
been tied to tightly to a stake or support. |
| grafting |
The uniting of a short length
of stem of one plant onto the root stock of a different plant (to produce a
hardier or more disease resistant plant). |
| ground cover |
A group of plants usually used
to cover bare earth and create a uniform appearance. |
| growing season |
The number of days between the
average date of the last killing frost in spring and the first killing frost
in fall. Vegetables and certain plants require a minimum number of days to
reach maturity, so be sure your growing season is long enough. |
| hardening off |
The process of gradually
acclimatizing greenhouse or indoor grown plants to outdoor growing
conditions. |
| hardpan |
The impervious layer of soil or
clay lying beneath the topsoil. |
| hardiness |
The ability of a plant to
withstand low temperatures or frost, without artificial protection.
|
| heading back |
Cutting an older branch or stem
back to a stub or twig. |
| heeling in |
Temporarily setting a plant
into a shallow trench and covering the roots with soil to provide protection
until it is ready to be permanently planted. |
| herbaceous |
Describes a plant with soft
rather than woody tissues. |
| honeydew |
The sticky secretion produced
by sucking insects such as aphids. |
| humus |
The brown or black organic part
of the soil resulting from the partial decay of leaves and other matter.
|
| hybrid |
The offspring of two plants of
different species or varieties of plants. Hybrids are created when the
pollen from one kind of plant is used to pollinate and entirely different
variety, resulting in a new plant altogether. |
| hydroponics |
The science of growing plants
in mineral solutions or liquid, instead of in soil. |
| lath |
In gardening, an overhead
structure of evenly spaced slats of wood or other materials used to create
shade. |
| layering |
A method of propagation, by
which a branch of a plant is rooted while still attached to the plant by
securing it to the soil with a piece of wire or other means.. |
| leaching |
The removal or loss of excess
salts or nutrients from soil. The soil around over fertilized plants can be
leached clean by large quantities of fresh water used to 'wash' the soil.
Areas of extremely high rainfall sometimes lose the nutrients from the soil
by natural leaching. |
| leaf mold |
Partially decomposed leaf
matter, used as a soil amendment. |
| loam |
A rich soil composed of clay,
sand, and organic matter. |
| manure |
Organic matter, excreted by
animals, which is used as a soil amendment and fertilizer. Green manures are
plant cover crops which are tilled into the soil. |
| microclimate |
Variations of the climate
within a given area, usually influenced by hills, hollows, structures or
proximity to bodies of water. (i.e. when it's
raining at your house, and the sun is shining on the other side of the
street) |
| micro nutrients |
Mineral elements which are
needed by some plants in very small quantities. If the plants you are
growing require specific 'trace elements' and they are not available in the
soil, they must be added. |
| mulch |
Any loose material placed over
the soil to control weeds and conserve soil moisture. Usually this is a
coarse organic matter, such as leaves, clippings or bark, but plastic
sheeting and other commercial products can also be used. |
| native plant |
Any plant that occurs and grows
naturally in a specific region or locality. |
| naturalize |
To plant randomly, without a
pattern. The idea is to create the effect that the plants grew in that space
without man's help, such as you would find wild flowers growing. |
| node |
The part of a stem from which a
leaf or new branch starts to grow. |
| organic gardening |
The method of gardening
utilizing only materials derived from living things.
(i.e. composts and manures) |
| organic material |
Any material which originated
as a living organism. (i.e. peat moss, compost,
manure) |
| parasitic plant |
A plant which lives on, and
acquires it's nutrients from another plant. This often results in declined
vigor or death of the host plant. |
| peat moss |
The partially decomposed
remains of various mosses. This is a good, water retentive addition to the
soil, but tends to add the acidity of the soil pH. |
| perennial |
A nonwoody plant which
grows and lives for more than two years. Perennials usually produce one
flower crop each year, lasting anywhere from a week to a month or longer. |
| perlite |
A mineral, which when expanded
by a heating process forms light granuals. Perlite is a good addition to
container potting mixes, to promote moisture retention while allowing good
drainage. |
| pest |
Any insect or animal which is
detrimental to the health and well being of plants or other animals. |
| photosynthesis |
The internal process by which a
plant turns sunlight into growing energy. The formation of carbohydrates in
plants from water and carbon dioxide, by the action of sunlight on the
Chlorophyll within the leaves. |
| pinching back |
Utilizing the thumb and
forefinger to nip back the very tip of a branch or stem. Pinching promotes
branching, and a bushier, fuller plant |
| pistil |
The seed-bearing organ of a
flower, consisting of the ovary, stigma, and style. |
| pollination |
The transfer of pollen from the
stamen (male part of the flower) to the pistil (female part of the
flower), which results in the formation of a seed. Hybrids are created
when the pollen from one kind of plant is used to pollinate and entirely
different variety, resulting in a new plant altogether. |
| potting soil |
A soil mixture designed for use
in container gardens and potted plants. Potting mixes should be loose,
light, and sterile. |
| propagation |
Various methods of starting new
plants ranging from starting seeds to identical clones created by cuttings
or layering. |
| pruning |
The cutting and trimming of
plants to remove dead or injured wood, or to control and direct the new
growth of a plant. |
| pH |
Basically, pH is a measure of
the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil. A soil with a pH lower
than 7.0 is an acid soil, a soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline soil. Soil
pH can be tested with an inexpensive test kit. |
| rhizome |
A modified plant stem which
grows horizontally, under the surface of the soil. New growth then emerges
from different points of the rhizome. Irises and some lawn grasses are
rhizome plants. |
| root ball |
The network of roots along with
the attached soil, of any given plant. |
| rootbound |
A condition which exists when a
potted plant has outgrown its container. The roots become entangled and
matted together, and the growth of the plant becomes stunted. When
repotting, loosen the roots on the outer edges of the root ball, to induce
them to once again grow outward. |
| rooting hormone |
A powder of liquid growth
hormone, used to promote the development of roots on a cutting. |
| runner |
A slender stem growing out from
the base of some plants, which terminates with a new offset plant. The new
plant may be severed from the parent after it has developed sufficient
roots. |
| relative humidity |
The measurement of the amount
of moisture in the atmosphere. |
| scion |
A short length of stem, taken
from one plant which is then grafted onto the rootstock of another plant. |
| single flower |
A flower having only a minimum
number of petals for that variety of plant. |
| soil pH |
Basically, pH is a measure of
the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil. A soil with a pH lower
than 7.0 is an acid soil, a soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline soil. Soil
pH can be tested with an inexpensive test kit. |
| sphagnum |
A bog moss which is collected
and composted. Most peat moss is composed primarily of sphagnum moss. This
moss is also packaged and sold in a fresh state, and used for lining hanging
baskets and air layering. |
| staking |
The practice of driving a stake
into the ground next to, and as a support for a plant. When attaching the
plant to the stake, be sure that it is tied loosely so it doesn't strangle
the stem. When staking a potted plant, the stake should be set into the
planter before the plant is added. |
| sucker |
A growth originating from the
rootstock of a grafted plant, rather than the desired part of the plant.
Sucker growth should be removed, so it doesn't draw energy from the plant. |
| systemic |
A chemical which is absorbed
directly into a plants system to either kill feeding insects on the plant,
or to kill the plant itself. |
| tap root |
The main, thick root growing
straight down from a plant. (not all plants have
tap roots) |
| tender plants |
Plants which are unable to
endure frost or freezing temperatures. |
| tendril |
The twisting, clinging, slender
growth on many vines, which allows the plant to attach themselves to a
support or trellis. |
| thatch |
The layer of dead stems that
builds up under many lawn grasses. Thatch should be removed periodically to
promote better water and nutrient penetration into the soil. |
| thinning |
Removing excess seedlings, to
allow sufficient room for the remaining plants to grow. Thinning also refers
to removing entire branches from a tree or shrub, to give the plant a more
open structure. |
| topiary |
A method of pruning and
training certain plants into formal shapes such as animals. |
| topsoil |
The top layer of native
soil. This term may also apply to good quality soil sold at nurseries and
garden centers. |
| transpiration |
The release of moisture through
the leaves of a plant. |
| transplanting |
The process of digging up a
plant and moving it to another location. |
| tuber |
A flat underground stem which
stores food and plant energy and from which a plant grows.
(e.g. Dahlias) |
| vermiculite |
The processed mineral 'mica'.
A good addition to container potting mixes, vermiculite retains moisture and
air within the soil. |
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Call the Landscape Helper Crew.
The Contractors Solutions Do it yourself crew is ready to work for you.
We know about: drought, clippings, sowing, topsoil and compost.
We are familiar with Broomall PA 19008, Newtown Square PA 19073, landscapers,
blue grass, drainage, reseed,
warm-season grasses, seedlings, seeds, topsoil, sod, poor drainage, aerate the
soil, mulch, germinates, sprigs,
plugs and good landscape turf grass.
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