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Seeding,   sodding,   fertilizing,   pruning,   mulches,   top soil,   spring & fall cleanups,   landscape design & hardscaping,   new lawn,   unwanted plants,   compost.   Landscape - Grass


A.  General Information.
B.  Prepare for a Completely New Lawn.
C.  How to Patch Bare Areas with Seed.
D.  How to Patch Bare Areas with Sod.
E.  How to Patch Bare Areas with Sprigs or Plugs.

A.  General Information
         If you are putting in a completely new lawn or just maintaining your existing lawn, you should always pay attention to the factors that affect the way your grass will grow. You need to think about how much sun and shade the grass will be getting. Consider poor drainage, wind, and heat stress when picking varieties of grass. Think about how much maintenance you can handle; low, medium, or high. Think about the cost of everything. A low-maintenance lawn is better for a smaller cost. If you want your lawn to be thicker, greener, more fine bladed, and more vigorous and stress tolerant, the solution is to reseed it with new, improved variety. You don't exactly have to dig up your old lawn, just overseed the existing grass with new seeds. First you have to analyze the condition of your current lawn. If it has less than 50 percent good grass, the best thing to do is remove it all and start over. But, if more than 50 percent is strong, overseeding is a good option. Try to figure out what made the existing grass weak; shade, drought, insects? Then you can pick the kind of grass that prevents those problems. Now, pick the right time for germination. Fall is best for cool-season turfgrasses and spring is best for warm-season grasses.

B.  Prepare for a Completely New Lawn
         rake-up-clippings sow-seed (19K) It is important to make sure the seeds can make contact with the soil. Start by mowing the lawn as short as possible. Rake up the clippings, then mow and rake again. Then, take a metal garden rake and scratch the soil vigorously. Since you are not sowing into bare ground, you have to sow seed at two to three times the amount recommended on the package. Then cover the seed with a ¼- to ½- inch layer of topsoil, like finely ground compost. Water daily until the seed germinates. Let the new seedlings grow to the maximum cutting height, then mow, taking off no more than one-third of their height.

C.  How to Patch Bare Areas with Seed
         It is important to make sure the seeds can make contact with the soil. Start by mowing the lawn as short as possible. Rake up the clippings, then mow and rake again. Then, take a metal garden rake and scratch the soil vigorously. Since you're not sowing into bare ground, you have to sow seed at two to three times the amount recommended on the package. Then cover the seed with a ¼- to ½- inch layer of topsoil, like finely ground compost. Water daily until the seed germinates. Let the new seedlings grow to the maximum cutting height, then mow, taking off no more than one-third of their height.

D.  How to Patch Bare Areas with Sod
         If most of your lawn is in good condition, but there are just a few bad spots, like a weedy patch or a bare area, you can just patch that area with sod. cut out an area for sod First of all, find out what the underlying problem is so it doesn't happen again. A weedy patch may be from soil compaction. Thin areas could be from shade, poor drainage, or lack of regular feeding. Heavy traffic or frequent use makes bare areas. A patch of yellow might be from gasoline, herbicide, or fertilizer spills, or from the family dog. To reduce compaction, aerate the soil. If you can't trim shrubs and trees to reduce shade, sow a shade-tolerant seed blend. For chemical spills, flush the soil well with water. Now you need to completely remove the existing grass or weed cover in the area. Then square off the area and enlarge it about 6 inches beyond the problem itself. Prepare the soil as thoroughly as if you were planting a new lawn. Rototill it to a depth of 6 inches, removing any weed roots or rhizomes or any other debris, like rocks or tree roots, in the soil. If the soil is sand or heavy clay, add inches of compost or other organic matter and thoroughly mix it into the soil. Rake the surface level, then water well. If you're repairing the patch with seed, sow it at the recommended rate, then rake to cover with a thin layer of soil. In hot, dry weather, also cover the seed with a light layer of weed-free mulch. Keep the soil moist until the seed germinates. After it germinates, leave the grass unmown until it reaches its maximum recommended height. firm-sod-into-soil The fastest way to patch a lawn is with sod. Cut the sod to match the prepared area, then lay it so its edges touch those of the existing grass. Firm the sod into the soil. Apply a special starter fertilizer and water thoroughly. Watch the new grass closely. The edges of the sod strip will be the first places to dry out and may need daily watering. Make sure the underlying soil stays moist for at least the first two weeks.

E.  How to Patch Bare Areas with Sprigs or Plugs
         sprigs Some grasses are available as sprigs or plugs. Sprigs are small pieces of grass plants with crowns and roots. Plugs are small, round patches of sod about 2 to 4 inches in diameter. Depending on species, sprigs are planted 4 to 12 inches apart, and plugs 6 to 12 inches apart. But, for patching, spacing them closer together will let them fill in bare spots faster. Before planting them, prepare soil as usual. Take extra care after planting. Keep the soil evenly moist (but not soaked through) for about a month to let the roots become established. You also have to keep the bare area between the sprigs or plugs weed free until the new grass has completely covered the bare ground.

Call the Landscape Helper Crew.
The Contractors Solutions Do it yourself crew is ready to work for you.
We know about: drought, clippings, sowing, topsoil and compost.
We are familiar with Broomall PA 19008, Newtown Square PA 19073, landscapers, blue grass, drainage, reseed, warm-season grasses, seedlings, seeds, topsoil, sod, poor drainage, aerate the soil, mulch, germinates, sprigs, plugs and good landscape turf grass.

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Your
Landscape - Hardscape
information resource.
 

Weekly Lawn Cutting

Minimum $23.00 Each Cut
Evergreen Trimming
 Starts at  $40.00 Each Tree or Shrub
Zero lot (total lot size 5500 sq ft or less) $24.00/wk
$99.00/month
Average interior lot, front, back & alley (appx lot size100'x70') $26.00/wk
$134.50/month
Average Corner Lot (appx lot size 100'x85') $36.00/wk
$159.50/month
Oversized, Cul De Sac, Terraced/multilevel Request Estimate
Thursday or Friday service: add $1/wk
add $4/month
 

 
Services available on an ‘on call’ basis for $95/hr (3 person crew) or $75/hr (2 person crew) includes hedging, pruning, tree thinning, gutter cleaning, annual planting (annuals not supplied) etc.
 
Small landscaping jobs, (bid by the job), including: removing and replacing shrubs, installing new borders, installing grass sod, creating new beds, and planting new trees. On Site Estimate Only.
 
Grass Cutting & Edging
Fertilizing
Landscaping Design
Retaining Garden Wall
Seasonal Weed Control
Sodding
Delivery for soil, rocks & sod.
Lawn Aeration
Power Raking
Evergreen Trimming
Cleanup
Flower Beds
Tree Stump Removal
Security Lights
Snow Removal
 Establish a Bedline
 Removing Unwanted Plants from Bedline
Planting container-grown or balled-and-burlapped plants.
Foundation Plantings
 
This is a Pricing Guide to estimate the approximate cost of landscaping services. Basic materials are included in these costs.
Trees and shrubbery purchases are not included. 
All costs must be confirmed by email to a staff member of Contractors Solutions Inc.  
Important Note: The prices listed below are researched to be "industry averaged" and do not represent the prices or costs of any particular company affiliated with us.

Workers prices for trees, shrubs, flowers and grass in Delaware County - Newtown Square, PA
 
Landscaping Glossary of Terms
acid soil Soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil. Soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline, pH is a measure of the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil.
aerate Loosening or puncturing the soil to increase water penetration.
alkaline soil A soil with a pH higher than 7.0 is an alkaline soil. (lower than 7.0 is acidic)
annuals Plants whose life cycle lasts only one year, from seed to blooms to seed.
arboretum A garden with a large collection of trees and shrubs cultivated for scientific or educational purposes.
Aquatic plants Plants which grow in, live in, or live on the water.
bedding plant Plants (mainly annuals), nursery grown and suitable for growing in beds. Quick, colorful flowers.
biennial A plant that usually only lives two years, normally producing flowers and seed the second year.
bonsai The art of growing carefully trained, dwarf plants in containers.
botanical name The Latin or "scientific" name of a plant, usually composed of two words, the genus and the species.
bract Modified leaves growing just below a flower. Often confused with the flower itself.
bud Early stages of development of a flower or plant growth.
bulb The thickened underground storage organ of the group of perennials which includes daffodils and tulips.
cambium The thin membrane located just beneath the bark of a plant.
chlorophyll The green pigment in leaves. When present and healthy usually dominates all other pigments.
complete fertilizer A plant food which contains all three of the primary elements... nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
compost An organic soil amendment resulting from the decomposition of organic matter.
corm A thickened underground stem which produces roots, leaves and flowers during the growing season.
cover crop A crop which is planted in the absence of the normal crop to control weeds and add humus to the soil when it is plowed in prior to regular planting.
crown The point at which a plants roots and top join. (usually at soil level)
cultivate Process of breaking up the soil surface, removing weeds, and preparing for planting.
cuttings A method of propagation using sections of stems, roots or leaves.
damping off A fungus, usually affecting seedlings and causes the stem to rot off at soil level. Sterilized potting soil and careful sanitation practices usually prevent this.
dead head The process of pinching off used or spent blooms to keep the plants well groomed and to prevent them from setting seed. This will promote continued bloom.
dibble stick A pointed tool used to make holes in the soil for seeds, bulbs, or young plants.
de-thatch Process of removing dead stems that build up beneath lawn grasses.
dividing The process of splitting up plants, roots and all that have began to get bound together. This will make several plants from one plant, and usually should be done to mature perennials every 3 to 4 years.
dormancy The yearly cycle in a plants life when growth slows and the plant rests. Fertilizing should be withheld when a plant is in dormancy.
double digging Preparing the soil by systematically digging an area to the depth of two shovels.
double flower A flower with many overlapping petals which gives it a very full appearance.
drip line The circle which would exist if you drew a line below the tips of the outer most branches of a tree or plant.
epiphyte A plant which grows on another plant but gets its nourishment from the air and rainfall. They do no damage to the host plant.
erosion The wearing away, washing away, or removal of soil by wind, water or man.
espalier Process of training a tree or shrub so its branches grow in a flat pattern.
evergreen A plant which never loses all of it's leaves at one time.
eye An undeveloped bud growth which will ultimately produce new growth.
evaporation Process by which water returns to the air. Higher temperatures speed the process of evaporation.
fertilizer Organic or inorganic plant foods which may be either liquid or granular used to amend the soil in order to improve the quality or quantity of plant growth.
flat A shallow box or tray used to start cuttings or seedlings.
foliar feeding Fertilizer applied in liquid form to the plants foliage in a fine spray.
forcing The process of hastening a plants growth to maturity or bloom.
frost The condensation and freezing of moisture in the air. Tender plants will suffer extensive damage or die when exposed to frost.
germinate The process of the sprouting of a seed.
girdling The choking of a branch by a wire or other material, most often in the stems of woody plants that have been tied to tightly to a stake or support.
grafting The uniting of a short length of stem of one plant onto the root stock of a different plant (to produce a hardier or more disease resistant plant).
ground cover A group of plants usually used to cover bare earth and create a uniform appearance.
growing season The number of days between the average date of the last killing frost in spring and the first killing frost in fall. Vegetables and certain plants require a minimum number of days to reach maturity, so be sure your growing season is long enough.
hardening off The process of gradually acclimatizing greenhouse or indoor grown plants to outdoor growing conditions.
hardpan The impervious layer of soil or clay lying beneath the topsoil.
hardiness The ability of a plant to withstand low temperatures or frost, without artificial protection.
heading back Cutting an older branch or stem back to a stub or twig.
heeling in Temporarily setting a plant into a shallow trench and covering the roots with soil to provide protection until it is ready to be permanently planted.
herbaceous Describes a plant with soft rather than woody tissues.
honeydew The sticky secretion produced by sucking insects such as aphids.
humus The brown or black organic part of the soil resulting from the partial decay of leaves and other matter.
hybrid The offspring of two plants of different species or varieties of plants. Hybrids are created when the pollen from one kind of plant is used to pollinate and entirely different variety, resulting in a new plant altogether.
hydroponics The science of growing plants in mineral solutions or liquid, instead of in soil.
lath In gardening, an overhead structure of evenly spaced slats of wood or other materials used to create shade.
layering A method of propagation, by which a branch of a plant is rooted while still attached to the plant by securing it to the soil with a piece of wire or other means..
leaching The removal or loss of excess salts or nutrients from soil. The soil around over fertilized plants can be leached clean by large quantities of fresh water used to 'wash' the soil. Areas of extremely high rainfall sometimes lose the nutrients from the soil by natural leaching.
leaf mold Partially decomposed leaf matter, used as a soil amendment.
loam A rich soil composed of clay, sand, and organic matter.
manure Organic matter, excreted by animals, which is used as a soil amendment and fertilizer. Green manures are plant cover crops which are tilled into the soil.
microclimate Variations of the climate within a given area, usually influenced by hills, hollows, structures or proximity to bodies of water. (i.e. when it's raining at your house, and the sun is shining on the other side of the street)
micro nutrients Mineral elements which are needed by some plants in very small quantities. If the plants you are growing require specific 'trace elements' and they are not available in the soil, they must be added.
mulch Any loose material placed over the soil to control weeds and conserve soil moisture. Usually this is a coarse organic matter, such as leaves, clippings or bark, but plastic sheeting and other commercial products can also be used.
native plant Any plant that occurs and grows naturally in a specific region or locality.
naturalize To plant randomly, without a pattern. The idea is to create the effect that the plants grew in that space without man's help, such as you would find wild flowers growing.
node The part of a stem from which a leaf or new branch starts to grow.
organic gardening The method of gardening utilizing only materials derived from living things. (i.e. composts and manures)
organic material Any material which originated as a living organism. (i.e. peat moss, compost, manure)
parasitic plant A plant which lives on, and acquires it's nutrients from another plant. This often results in declined vigor or death of the host plant.
peat moss The partially decomposed remains of various mosses. This is a good, water retentive addition to the soil, but tends to add the acidity of the soil pH.
perennial A nonwoody plant which grows and lives for more than two years. Perennials usually produce one flower crop each year, lasting anywhere from a week to a month or longer.
perlite A mineral, which when expanded by a heating process forms light granuals. Perlite is a good addition to container potting mixes, to promote moisture retention while allowing good drainage.
pest Any insect or animal which is detrimental to the health and well being of plants or other animals.
photosynthesis The internal process by which a plant turns sunlight into growing energy. The formation of carbohydrates in plants from water and carbon dioxide, by the action of sunlight on the Chlorophyll within the leaves.
pinching back Utilizing the thumb and forefinger to nip back the very tip of a branch or stem. Pinching promotes branching, and a bushier, fuller plant
pistil The seed-bearing organ of a flower, consisting of the ovary, stigma, and style.
pollination The transfer of pollen from the stamen (male part of the flower) to the pistil (female part of the flower), which results in the formation of a seed. Hybrids are created when the pollen from one kind of plant is used to pollinate and entirely different variety, resulting in a new plant altogether.
potting soil A soil mixture designed for use in container gardens and potted plants. Potting mixes should be loose, light, and sterile.
propagation Various methods of starting new plants ranging from starting seeds to identical clones created by cuttings or layering.
pruning The cutting and trimming of plants to remove dead or injured wood, or to control and direct the new growth of a plant.
pH Basically, pH is a measure of the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil. A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil, a soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline soil. Soil pH can be tested with an inexpensive test kit.
rhizome A modified plant stem which grows horizontally, under the surface of the soil. New growth then emerges from different points of the rhizome. Irises and some lawn grasses are rhizome plants.
root ball The network of roots along with the attached soil, of any given plant.
rootbound A condition which exists when a potted plant has outgrown its container. The roots become entangled and matted together, and the growth of the plant becomes stunted. When repotting, loosen the roots on the outer edges of the root ball, to induce them to once again grow outward.
rooting hormone A powder of liquid growth hormone, used to promote the development of roots on a cutting.
runner A slender stem growing out from the base of some plants, which terminates with a new offset plant. The new plant may be severed from the parent after it has developed sufficient roots.
relative humidity The measurement of the amount of moisture in the atmosphere.
scion A short length of stem, taken from one plant which is then grafted onto the rootstock of another plant.
single flower A flower having only a minimum number of petals for that variety of plant.
soil pH Basically, pH is a measure of the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil. A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil, a soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline soil. Soil pH can be tested with an inexpensive test kit.
sphagnum A bog moss which is collected and composted. Most peat moss is composed primarily of sphagnum moss. This moss is also packaged and sold in a fresh state, and used for lining hanging baskets and air layering.
staking The practice of driving a stake into the ground next to, and as a support for a plant. When attaching the plant to the stake, be sure that it is tied loosely so it doesn't strangle the stem. When staking a potted plant, the stake should be set into the planter before the plant is added.
sucker A growth originating from the rootstock of a grafted plant, rather than the desired part of the plant. Sucker growth should be removed, so it doesn't draw energy from the plant.
systemic A chemical which is absorbed directly into a plants system to either kill feeding insects on the plant, or to kill the plant itself.
tap root The main, thick root growing straight down from a plant. (not all plants have tap roots)
tender plants Plants which are unable to endure frost or freezing temperatures.
tendril The twisting, clinging, slender growth on many vines, which allows the plant to attach themselves to a support or trellis.
thatch The layer of dead stems that builds up under many lawn grasses. Thatch should be removed periodically to promote better water and nutrient penetration into the soil.
thinning Removing excess seedlings, to allow sufficient room for the remaining plants to grow. Thinning also refers to removing entire branches from a tree or shrub, to give the plant a more open structure.
topiary A method of pruning and training certain plants into formal shapes such as animals.
topsoil The top layer of native soil. This term may also apply to good quality soil sold at nurseries and garden centers.
transpiration The release of moisture through the leaves of a plant.
transplanting The process of digging up a plant and moving it to another location.
tuber A flat underground stem which stores food and plant energy and from which a plant grows. (e.g. Dahlias)
vermiculite The processed mineral 'mica'.  A good addition to container potting mixes, vermiculite retains moisture and air within the soil.