We are roofing contractors for roofing and repair work.
Call us regarding roofing inspections, hard to find leaks, new roofing installations, shingles, hot asphalt, rubber roof systems and
flat roof work of all types.
Tracing Leaks takes the experience we have. Making roof repairs takes economical know-how.
Call us about replacing Asphalt Shingles, protecting the Joints with Flashing, removing Shingles, Replacing damaged Sheathing.
Drip Edge Flashing, Metal Valley Flashing, Step and Chimney Flashing. |
  | |
Information is top priority in our business. | |
We give you all there is to know. |
What to look for and what to do about it -
The roof of your home is your first line of defense against the elements. Most roof problems are caused by water. Finding the source
of a leak can be tough, but the laws of nature work in your favor. Tracing Leaks - Water usually follows a winding path, but eventually
it always runs downhill. If you have an unfinished attic, examine the underside of your roof with a strong flashlight on a rainy day.
If you find wetness, discoloration, or other signs of moisture, trace the trail up to where the water is making its entrance.
Water that flows down toward a wall can be temporarily diverted to minimize the damage.
  
Nail a small block of wood in the path of the water and place a bucket underneath to catch the drip. Then, on a dry day, drive a nail
through the underside of the decking in order to locate and repair the hole.
Minor Roofing Repairs - If there are no obvious signs of wetness, check the insulation between the rafters. Wearing a respirator,
long sleeves, and heavy gloves, examine the insulation for mold, discoloration, and dampness. Remove insulation until you find the
leak. If the leak is finding its way to a finished ceiling, take steps to minimize damage until the leak can be repaired.
Reduce the accumulation of water behind a ceiling by poking a small hole in the wallboard or plaster and draining the water.
When you find the source of a leak from inside, measure between that spot and a point that will be visible and identifiable from
outside the house, like a chimney, vent, pipe, or - if nothing else - the peak of the roof. Then, get up on the roof and use
these measurements to locate the leak. While you're there, check for damaged or missing shingles, tiles, or slates; deteriorated
flashing; exposed nails; open joints between the roof and siding; damaged chimney masonry; open seams in roofing materials; and
missing window or door drip caps.
  
If shingles appear brittle, warm them slightly with a hair dryer. To reattach
a loose shingle, wipe down the building paper and the underside of the shingle. Let each dry, then apply a liberal coat of roofing
cement. Press the shingle down to seat it in the bed of cement. Tack down buckled shingles by cleaning out below the buckled area,
filling with roofing cement, and pressing the shingle into the cement. You can also patch cracks and splits with roofing cement.
Check the joints around flashing, which are common places for roof leaks to occur. Seal gaps by cleaning out and replacing any failed
roofing cement. Replace Asphalt Shingles - Replace asphalt shingles by pulling out damaged shingles, starting with the uppermost
shingle in the damaged area. Be careful not to damage surrounding shingles that still are in good condition. Exposed nail heads can
puncture new shingles, so remove all the old nails in and above the repair area. Patch damaged building paper with roofing cement.
Install the replacement shingles, beginning with the lowest shingle in the repair area. Nail above the tab slots with 1" roofing
nails. Install all but the top shingle with nails, then apply roofing cement to the underside of the top shingle, above the seal
line. Slip the last shingle into place, under the overlapping shingle. Lift the shingles immediately above the repair area, and nail
the top replacement shingles into place.
  
Flashing Protects the Joints - Flashing protects the joints surrounding roof elements and the seams between roof areas by carrying
water off the roof's surface. When repairing valley flashing, the damaged flashing is not removed, but is patched over with pieces of
new material. Measure the damaged area and mark an outline for the patch. The patch should be wide enough to slip under the shingles
on both sides of the repair area, and tapered to a point at one end. Cut the patch with aviation snips. Using a trowel or flat pry
bar, carefully break the seal between the damaged flashing and the surrounding shingles. Scrub the damaged flashing with a wire brush,
and wipe it clean. Apply a heavy bead of roofing cement to the back of the patch. Cut a slit in the old flashing. Insert the tapered
end of the patch into the slit in the old flashing, and slip the side edges under the shingles on each side. Rest the square end of
the patch on top of the old flashing, and press it firmly to seal the roofing cement joint. Add roofing cement to the exposed seams
and at the shingle joints. Using a trowel, feather out the cement to create a smooth path for water flow. Make sure all of the seams
are covered.
  
Removing Shingles - Removing shingles, commonly referred to in the roofing trade as the tear-off, can be done pretty quickly. If you
can't reshingle your whole roof in one day, tear off one section at a time. Remove the ridge cap with a flat pry bar. Then work
downward, tearing off the building paper and old shingles with a roofing shovel or pitchfork. Unless flashing is in exceptional
condition, remove it by slicing through the roofing cement that attaches it to the shingles. You might be able to salvage flashing
pieces and reuse them. After removing shingles, building paper, and flashing from the entire tear-off section, pry out any remaining
nails and sweep the roof with a broom. At night, cover any unshingled sections using tarps weighted down with shingle bundles.
  
Replacing Sheathing - If you find a soft spot while inspecting your roof after the tear-off, or see a portion of damaged sheathing,
you have to replace it. Check under the sheathing for wiring. Use a reciprocating saw to cut to the rafters in an area that extends
well beyond the damaged area. Pry out the damaged sections. Attach 2 x 4 nailing strips to the inside edge of the rafters with 3" deck
screws. Use exterior grade plywood to make a patch. Measure the area and cut the patch, allowing for a 1/8" gap on all sides for
expansion. Attach the patch to the rafters and nailing strips, using 2 ¼" decks screws or 8d ring-shank siding nails.
  
Building Paper - Building paper is installed on the roof decks as insurance in case leaks develop in shingles or flashing. It is sold in several
weights, but 30# paper is a good choice to use under shingles. Lay the first course of building paper, overhanging the eaves by 3/8".
Measure up from the eaves' edge to a point 32" above the top of the previous course of underlayment. Roll out the next course of
building paper, always overlapping the first course by 4". Attach building paper with a hammer stapler, driving a staple every 6" to
12" at the edges and one staple per square foot in the field area. Install building paper up to the ridge - ruled side up - checking
the alignment. Trim off the courses flush with the rake edge. Work your way up the roof deck with building paper courses, allowing 4"
horizontal overlaps and 12" vertical seams. At valleys, roll building paper across from both sides, overlapping the ends by 36".
Overlap hips and ridges by 6".
  
Fit building paper patches over obstructions like vent pipes and roof vents. Apply building paper up to the obstruction. Then resume
laying the course on the opposite side, making sure to maintain the line. Cut a patch that overlaps the building paper by 12" on all
sides. Make a cross-hatch cutout for the obstruction. Position the patch, staple it in place, then caulk the seams with roofing
cement. At the bottom of dormers and sidewalls, tuck the building paper under the siding, where it intersects with the roof. Also
tuck it under counterflashing on chimneys and skylights. Carefully pry up the siding and tuck at least 2" of paper under the siding.
Leave the siding or counterflashing unfastened until after you install the step flashing. Attach the drip edge flashing along the rake
edges. To install Drip Edge Flashing - Drip edge flashing on the eaves is installed before the building paper is attached, while drip
edge flashing at the rake edges is installed after building paper has been attached. To install drip edge flashing at the eaves,
nail a strip of drip edge along the edge of the eaves. Overlap strips by 2" at vertical seams, and nail at 12" intervals. Miter the
ends at a 45 degree angle to make a miter joint with the drip edge on the rake edge. Use galvanized roofing nails to install
galvanized or vinyl drip edge; use aluminum nails for aluminum drip edge. Nail at 12" intervals. To install drip edge flashing at
the rakes, start at the bottom, forming a miter joint with the drip edge at the eaves. Work toward the ridge, overlapping pieces of
drip edge by 2". Make sure the higher strip is on top at the overlaps.
  
Flashing must be able to flex as the roof element and roof deck expand and contract. To bend flashing, first make a bending jig by
driving screws into a piece of scrap wood, creating a space one-half the width of the flashing when measured from the edge of the
board. Clamp the bending jig to a work surface. Lay a piece of flashing flat on the board, and bend it over the edge. Use old
flashing as a template for making replacement pieces. This is very useful for reproducing complicated flashing, like saddle flashing
for chimneys or dormers. If your roof originally had a cricket to divert water around the chimney, have a metalworker make a new one.
Give the fabricator either the old cricket to use as a template, or the roof slope and chimney width to use as a guide.
To install Metal Valley Flashing
  
To install Metal Valley Flashing, start at the eaves. Set a piece of valley flashing into the valley, so the bottom of the "V" rests
in the crease of the valley. Nail the flashing at 12" intervals along each side. Trim the end of the flashing at the eaves so it's
flush with the drip edges at each side. Working toward the top, add flashing pieces, overlapping each at least 8", until you reach
the ridge. Let the top piece of the flashing extend a few inches beyond the ridge. Bend the flashing over the ridge, so it lies flat
on the opposite side of the roof. If you're installing preformed flashing, make a small cut in the spine for easier bending. Cover
nail heads with roofing cement (unless you're using rubber-gasket nails). Also apply roofing cement along the side edges of the
flashing. To install Step Flashing - To install Step Flashing, shingle up to the element that requires flashing so the tops of the
reveal areas are within 5" of the element. Install base flashing, using the old base flashing as a template.
Bend a piece of step flashing in half and set it next to the lowest corner of the element. Mark a trim line on the flashing, following
the vertical edge of the element. Cut and remove the "waste" flashing. Pry out the lower courses of siding and any trim at the base
of the element. Insert spacers to prop the trim or siding away from the work area.
  
Apply roofing cement to the base flashing in the area where the overlap with the step flashing will be formed. Tuck the trimmed piece
of step flashing under the propped area, and secure the flashing. Fasten the flashing with one rubber-gasket nail driven near the
top, and into the roof deck. Apply roofing cement to the top side of the first piece of step flashing, where it will be covered by
the next shingle by pressing it firmly into the roofing cement. Don't nail through the flashing underneath. Tuck another piece of
flashing under the trim or siding, overlapping the first piece of step flashing by at least 2". Set the flashing into roofing cement
applied on the top of the shingle. Then nail the shingle in place, taking care not to drive nails through the flashing. Continue
installing flashing in this manner up to the top of the element. Trim the last piece of the flashing to fit the top corner of the
element. Reattach the siding and trim. To install Chimney Flashing
To install Chimney Flashing, shingle up to the chimney base. Use the old base flashing as a template to cut new flashing.
Bend up the counterflashing (pieces anchored in the chimney to cover the step flashing). Apply roofing cement to the base of the
chimney and the shingles just below the base. Press the base flashing into the roofing cement and bend the flashing around the
edges of the chimney. Drive rubber-gasket nails through the flashing flange into the roof deck. Install step flashing and shingles,
working up the top of the chimney. Fasten flashing to the chimney with roofing cement. Fold down the counterflashing as you go.
Cut and install top flashing (sometimes called a saddle) around the high side of the chimney, overlapping the final piece of flashing
along each side, just as the base flashing was installed. Attach the flashing with roofing cement applied to the deck and the chimney,
and with rubber-gasket nails driven through the base of the flashing and into the roof deck. Continue shingling past the chimney,
using roofing cement (not nails) to attach shingles over the flashing.
Price Information for Roofing
This is a Pricing Guide to estimate the approximate cost of roofing projects for property improvements.
Roofing and basic building materials are included in these costs.
Special purchases are not included.
All costs must be confirmed by email to a staff member of Contractors Solutions Inc.
Important Note: The prices listed below are "industry averaged" and do not represent the prices or costs of any particular company affiliated with Contractors Solutions Inc.
|
1. |
Initial Service / Work Set Up / Travel
- |
$191.05 |
|
2. |
Shingles -
New Roof, new shingle roof over new 1/2" plywood sheathling, 15# felt
- per square |
$149.29 |
|
3. |
Shingles -
New Roof - Re-roof over existing shingles - per square
|
$140.22 |
|
4. |
Shingles -
New Roof - Remove existing shingles, new shingle roof over existing plywood - per square
|
$202.57 |
|
5. |
Sub roof repairs -
Replace rotted ½"plywood sheathing each 4'x8' or 32 square feet - per sheet
|
$ 60.00 |
|
6. |
Architectural Shingles -
Shingles also known as dimensional shingle -
Additional cost per square |
$ 43.00 |
|
7. |
Cedar Shingles -
Cedar Shingles also known as cedar shakes -
Additional cost per square |
$319.00 |
|
8. |
Shingle Repairs -
Shingle Repairs - Search for a leak. Inspection for leak tracing
- |
$191.05 |
|
9. |
Shingle Repairs -
Replace defective or broken shingles - ea.
|
$ 20.00 |
|
10. |
Shingle Repairs -
Replace cedar wood shingles (cedar shakes) damaged or leaking wood shingles - ea. |
$ 30.00 |
|
11. |
Shingles Modified -
Modifications for minor roof changes - plumbing, chimney, deck, etc. -
|
$250.00 |
|
12. |
Shingles -
Closed-Cut Valley / Woven Valley - shingles extended across the valley while shingles from the other side are installed over the top of those. A valley construction by overlapping alternate courses of shingles from both sides (woven look) - per linear ft.
|
$100.00 |
|
13. |
Shingles -
Ridge Vent: exhaust venting located at the ridge working in conjunction with a starter or under eave soffit vent and is used to ventilate attics and vaulted ceilings - per linear ft.
|
$ 6.50 |
|
14. |
Shingles -
Snow Guards: secured to prevent snow and ice from sliding off of a roof - per linear ft.
|
$ 80.00 |
|
15. |
Flat Roof -
New Roof, new rubber roof over new plywood sheathing - per square
|
$302.00 |
|
16. |
Flat Roof -
New Roof - New Roof, roof over existing (.090 Thick) Membrane, Bonding Adhesive and Lap Splice Cement .per square
|
$296.65 |
|
17. |
Flat Roof -
New Roof - Remove existing rubber, new rubber roof over existing plywood sheathing -.090 Thick EPDM (Rubber) Roofing - per square
|
$345.93 |
|
18. |
Flat Roof -
Roof Coating - (aluminum based roof coatings add $2.00 per square) -
per square |
$ 60.87 |
|
19. |
Flat Roof -
Search for a leak. Inspection for leak tracing -
|
$125.00 |
|
20. |
Flat Roof -
Base Plywood sheathing The primary substrate of roofing material in a roof system - Additional cost per sheet
|
$ 60.00 |
|
21. |
Flat Roof -
4 Ply Built-up Roofing 4-ply built-up asphalt roof with smooth
surface top sheet
- per square |
$195.64 |
|
22. |
Flat Roof -
Aggregate: rock, crushed stone or lava rock, slag, water-worn gravel, etc. - per square
|
$ 76.46 |
|
23. |
Flat Roof -
Cap Flashing: The drip edge covering the top edge of base flashings -
per linear ft. |
$ 20.00 |
|
24. |
Roofing Maintenance -
Re-seal skylight - approx. |
$175.00 |
|
25. |
Roofing Maintenance -
Flashing / Coping repairs - approx.
|
$250.00 |
|
26. |
Roofing Maintenance -
Step Flashing repairs - approx.
|
$450.00 |
|
27. |
Roofing Maintenance -
Replace / repair broken terracotta tile on tile roof - approx.
|
$250.00 |
|
28. |
Maintenance -
Caulking: silicone sealing joints of various materials -
additional labor per hour |
$ 50.00 |
|
29. |
Maintenance -
Roof Cement: trowelable mixture of coal tar base, solvents and
fibers - additional labor per hour |
$ 50.00 |
|
30. |
Gutters -
Repairs for external gutters and/or downspouts -
additional labor per hour |
$ 50.00 |
|
31. |
Gutters -
Repairs for Dutch (dam) or in roof gutters and/or downspouts -
additional labor per hour |
$ 50.00 |
|
32. |
Gutters -
New external gutters and/or downspouts - per linear ft.
|
$ 22.00 |
|
33. |
Gutters -
Changes / modifications required for property renovations
- per linear ft. |
$ 65.00 |
|
34. |
Gutters -
Leaf Guard, screen, Flo Free, etc. - per linear ft. |
$ 22.00 |
|
35. |
Other -
Boot Collar: Rubber-medal seal cover flashing for a roof penetrations, soil or vent lines - Furnish and Install
|
$110.00 |
|
36. |
Other -
Drain: Customized channel to carry water off of a roof -
assessment at site |
$ ---- |
|
37. |
Other -
Drip Edge: Aluminum flashing along the outer perimeter of the roof -
per linear ft. |
$ 22.00 |
|
38. |
Other -
Expansion Joint: Separation between building sections (where movement is anticipated) - per linear ft.
|
$130.00 |
|
39. |
Other -
Roof Curb: A frame used to structurally mount rooftop equipment such as HVAC units, exhaust fans, skylight, etc.; may be pre-constructed or constructed on site,
Roof Cut - each |
$250.00 |
|
40. |
Roof Curb Installation - each
|
$250.00
|
| |
| |
|
Informative Notes about Roofing One square refers to a 10' x 10' area or 100 square feet, it takes three bundles of shingles to cover each square. Each bundle is comprised of 33 1/3 square feet The shingle rating (thickness) when referred to as # is the weight of the shingles covering one square. To approximate the size of your roof without climbing up on it is done by measuring the width of the home plus any over hang and counting the course or rows, while staying on the ground, two rows = one foot. Re-shingling over existing shingles is permitted only once by the building code, if there are two layers of shingles both must be removed down to the plywood sheathing. Unless otherwise specified shingles are a 20 year warranted standard 3 tab, 235 weight (#). The more the weight is, the thicker the shingle is, and the longer the warranty. Architectural Shingles are thicker and have a longer warranty, thicker 3 tab shingles are available and increase their warranty. |
| |
|
Your
e-search by the City of Philadelphia Property Trades for: roofing costs in Malvern 19355, Media 19063, Newtown Square 19073, Aston 19014, Chaddsford 19317, Conshohocken 19428, Delaware County, Chester County, Montgomery County. |
|
Check out our price list at the lower part of this page.
|
|
Roofing Industry Glossary of Terms
|
| | Acrylic Coating: A coating system with an acrylic resin base. |
| Air Blown Asphalt: Asphalt produced by blowing air through molten asphalt held at an elevated temperature. This procedure is used to modify properties of the asphalt. |
| Apron Flashing: A flashing located at the low end of a curb or penetration. |
| Area Divider: A flashed assembly usually extending above the surface of the roof that is anchored to the roof deck. It is used to relieve thermal stresses in a roof system where an expansion joint is not required, or to separate large roof areas. |
| Asbestos: An incombustible fibrous mineral form of magnesium silicate formerly used for fireproofing and sometimes used for the reinforcement of roofing materials. |
| Asphalt: Roofing Asphalt - A. Dead-Level Asphalt: for roofs which do not exceed a ¼ in 12 slope (2%). B. Flat Asphalt: for roofs which do not exceed a ½ in 12 slope (4%). C. Steep Asphalt: for roofs which do not exceed a 3 in 12 slope (25%). D. Special Steep Asphalt: for roofs which do not exceed a 6 in 12 slope (50%). E. Asphalt Felt: An asphalt-saturated and/or an asphalt-coated felt membrane. |
| Base Flashing (membrane base flashing): Plies of roof membrane material used to seal a roof at the vertical plane intersections, such as at a roof-wall and roof-curb junctures. |
| Base Sheet: An asphalt-impregnated, or coated felt used as the first ply in some built-up and modified bitumen roof systems. |
| Batten: (1) A strip of wood usually fastened to the structural deck for use in attaching a primary roof system such as tile; (2) A plastic strip, wood strip, or metal bar which is used to fasten or hold the roof and/or base flashing in place, A.K.A. Termination Bar. |
| Buckle: A long, tented displacement of a roof membrane. Can occur over insulation and deck joints. |
| Built-Up Roof Membrane: A roof membrane consisting of layers of bitumen, which serves as the waterproofing component, with plies of reinforcement fabric installed between each layer. The reinforcement material can consist of bitumen-saturated felt, coated felt, polyester felt or other fabrics. A surfacing is generally applied and can be asphalt, aggregate, emulsion or a granule-surfaced cap sheet. |
| Bulb-Tee: steel reinforcing used when constructing pre-stressed, poured gypsum decks. When the gypsum is poured, it surrounds the Bulb-Tee. |
| Closure Strip: A material used to close openings created by joining metal panels or sheets and flashings. |
| Coal Tar Pitch: A type of coal tar used in dead-level or low-slope built-up roofs. It is not for use in roofs exceeding ¼" in 12" (2%) slope. |
| Coal Tar Felt: A roofing membrane saturated with refined coal tar. |
| Coping: the piece of material used to cover the top of a wall. It can be constructed from metal, masonry, or stone. |
| Copper: It is also used as a primary roof material as well as a flashing component. Copper turns a greenish color after being exposed to the weather for a length of time and appears in the middle of the Galvanic Series. |
| Cornice: A horizontal projecting part that crowns the wall of a building. |
| Dry Rot: Wood rot caused by certain fungi. Dry rot can result from condensation build-up, roof leaks that go untended, or from other problems. Dry rot will not remain localized. It can spread and damage any lumber touching the affected area. |
| Felt: A roofing sheet made of interwoven fibers. The fibers can be wood or vegetable for Organic Felts, glass fibers for fiberglass felts, polyester, or asbestos. |
| Flashing: Components used to seal the roof system at areas where the roof covering is interrupted or terminated. For example, pipes, curbs, walls, etc. all have special components that, when correctly installed, will help prevent moisture entry into the roof system or building. |
| Primer: A material that is applied to a surface in order to increase that surface's ability to adhere to or work in conjunction with a subsequently applied material. |
| Slag: Residue from blast furnaces that is sometimes used for the surfacing on aggregate-surfaced built-up roof systems. |
| Slate: A fine-grained metamorphic rock that splits into thin, smooth-surfaced layers used in steep slope roofing applications. |
| Terra Cotta: A semifired ceramic clay used in building construction. |
| Underlayment: A material installed over the roof deck prior to the application of the primary roof covering. Usually consists of fifteen (15#) or thirty (30#) pound organic felt but can also be self-adhering such as an ice and water protection membrane. |
| Vulcanize: To improve the strength, resiliency, and freedom from stickiness and odor of rubber, for example, by combining with sulfur or other additives in the presence of heat and pressure. |
| Water Trough: The area in a valley where water runs. Usually referred to with open valley configurations. |
| Wind Clip: A clip that slips over the ends of tile, slate and other steep slope roofing materials in order to help prevent wind uplift damage. |
|
