Heating and Furnace Systems, Services by Contractors Solutions Inc. Philadelphia, Main Line and Delaware County, PA. |
Ask us about it; Forced air systems, boiler - furnace, heat exchanger, electric heaters, oil and gas heat, propane heaters, solar heaters, supplemental heating, blower motor, air filter.
Heating Systems and Costs.
We offer more information about
Contact us for the costs of installations and for repair services.
Ask us about Oil, Gas, Electric and Propane Systems. Warm air heating & air conditioning, &duct cleaning, preventative maintenance, maintaining a
forced-air system, air filter and blower motor.
Maintenance Repair - Replace duct filter - $ 40.00. Check for gas leaks - $ 70.00. |
Carbon Monoxide test - $175.00.
Check and clean standard gas furnace
(oil furnace add $68.00 for filter and nozzle) - $140.00.
Check and clean standard central A/C system (rooftop units add $50.00) - $100.00.
Replace gas valve on furnace or boiler (standing pilot) and a new thermocouple - $400.00.
||Replace gas valve on furnace or boiler (intermittent pilot or proven pilot) - $450.00.|
Replace gas valve on furnace or boiler (Milli-volt to standard standing pilot) - $350.00.
Replace gas valve on furnace or boiler to intermittent pilot or direct spark including ignition module wiring, pipe fittings and new pilot tubing - $650.00.
Replace gas valve on furnace or boiler to hot surface igniter, direct spark - $350.00.
Replace induced draft fan motor on furnaces or boilers,
includes replacement motor - $400.00.
Repair defective or broken HIS system with spark module - $180.00.
Goodman GMH80704BX Gas Furnace LoNox Emission 70000 BTU Furnace - $815.00.
Goodman GKS90904CX Gas Furnace 92000 BTU, 92.1% Efficiency $1,301.00.
Goodman Multi-Speed 95% Two-Stage Multipoise 70K BtuH Gas Furnace $1,060.00.
Goodman Gas Furnace Gch90904cxa 93% Afue 2 Stage $843.00.
Goodman 70,000 BTU Gas Furnace Fob - Freight GMS80703AN - $750.00.
90% Carrier Gas Furnace 58mcb060---1--16
Energy efficiency Model number nomenclature 58MCB 040 4-Way Multipoise Fixed-Capacity Direct-Vent - $1,030.00.
New System or Supplemental
Call us First!
Forced-air System, Replacing the Air Filter, Blower Motor and Gas Pilot.
The most common method of home heating is the use of air warmed by a furnace and forced through ducts that carry it to
the rooms in the house. This method is known as forced air heat. Forced air is, by far, the most common form of home heat, because
it uses natural gas or liquid propane, which are generally more affordable than other fuels. Gas forced-air systems are widely used in
cool climates worldwide. A gas forced-air furnace - running on natural gas or liquid propane (LP) - draws in surrounding air,
channels it across a set of heated plates, known as a heat exchanger
, and then uses a blower to circulate the air throughout the house.
A chamber on top of the furnace, known as a plenum, leads the warmed air from the furnace to a network of ducts that
carry the warm air to heat registers or vents mounted on walls or ceilings. To keep the cycle going, return ducts carry cooled air
from each room back to the furnace so it can be reheated and recirculated. Older systems use gravity to carry warm air throughout the
house and cool air back to the furnace. Advances in home design have required some changes in today's forced-air systems. Conventional
forced-air heat operates by recycling indoor air. In drafty older homes, this worked well since fresh air trickled in from outdoors.
Problems arise in newer, super insulated homes, where air contaminants can be constantly recirculated, causing respiratory ailments and
other health problems. Many Building Codes now require a fresh air intake in new construction to reduce such hazards. Some homes use
a heat recovery ventilator, which improves air quality without significant heat loss by drawing prewarmed outdoor air into the system.
Builders have also begun installing high-velocity (HV) forced-air systems. These systems increase living space by using small-diameter
tubes that require far less space in ceilings and walls than sheet-metal ducts.|
Maintaining a Forced-air System
You can handle most routine furnace maintenance yourself. Generally, the newer the
furnace, the simpler the maintenance, since a number of heavy-maintenance components have been eliminated on newer models. Most furnaces
installed since the 1980s do not have a thermocouple-controlled pilot light. In fact, the standing pilot light found on older furnaces
has been eliminated completely. In most cases, it's been replaced with either an intermittent pilot light that's lit only when there's
a call for heat from the thermostat, or a glowing element, known as a hot-surface igniter. An intermittent pilot light must be repaired
by a professional technician, should it fail. You can replace a hot-surface igniter yourself. Before doing any maintenance, always turn
off the furnace's main gas supply and the pilot gas supply, if your furnace has a separate one. Then, switch off the furnace's main power
switch and the power to the furnace at the main service panel. Check your owner's manual for any warnings or special instructions
concerning your furnace. Then, clear the area, so you have a safe workspace. Start with the most important and simplest furnace
maintenance procedure - inspecting the air filter. There are many types of filters. Read the section below to find out how to clean
yours and how often it must be changed.
B. Replacing the Air Filter
The air filter on your forced-air furnace is designed to capture dust, pollen, and other
airborne particles that would otherwise recirculate whenever the furnace blower is on. The filter must be cleaned regularly, according
to the manufacturer's specifications, and should be inspected once a month.
Locate the filter compartment and remove the access cover. The location of the compartment depends on the furnace type
and the style of filter. Many filters fit in a slot between the return air duct and blower. A few styles are located inside the main
furnace compartment. An electrostatic filter is installed in a separate unit attached to the furnace. Slide the filter out of its
compartment taking care not to catch it on the blower housing. Hold the filter up to a light. If the filter blocks much of the light,
replace it. Electrostatic filters can be reused after cleaning. Always read the manufacturer's instructions for your filter.
C. Maintaining the Blower Motor
About A Gas Pilot
Inspect the blower motor before the start of the heating season. Inspect it again
before the start of the cooling season if your central air conditioning uses the same blower. Turn off the power to the furnace.
Remove the access panel to the blower housing and inspect the motor. Some motors have oil ports and an adjustable, replaceable drive
belt. Others are self-lubricating and have a direct-drive mechanism. Wipe the motor clean with a damp cloth and check for oil fill
ports. The access panel may include a diagram indicating their location. Remove the covers to the ports (if equipped) and add a few
drops of light machine oil. Place the covers on the ports. With the power still off, inspect the drive belt. If it is cracked, worn,
glazed, or brittle, replace it. Check the belt tension by pushing down gently midway between the motor pulley and blower pulley.
The belt should flex about an inch.
To tighten or loosen the belt, locate the pulley tension adjustment nut on the blower motor. Loosen the locknut, and
turn the adjustment nut slightly. Check the belt tension, and readjust as required until the tension is correct. If the belt is out
of alignment or the bearings are worn, adjusting the belt tension will not solve the problem. With the power off, hold a straightedge
so it's flush with the edge of both pulleys. To align the belt, locate the motor mounting bolts on the motor's sliding bracket. Loosen
the bolts, and move the motor carefully until the pulleys are aligned. Tighten the bolts and check the belt tension and alignment again.
Repeat until the pulley is aligned and the tension is adjusted. Replace the furnace access panels that have been removed. Restore power
at the main service panel and switch on the furnace.
Every part of the heating system depends on a correct pilot light setting. The pilot
light (it's actually a flame used to ignite gas flowing through the burners) plays a large role in the efficiency of the entire system,
and a clean-burning pilot saves money, improves indoor air quality, and extends furnace life. If your furnace has a standing pilot
light, always check the flame before the start of the heating season to ensure that it's burning cleanly and with the proper mix of air
and fuel. Start by removing the main furnace access panel. If you can't see the pilot flame clearly, turn off the gas supply and the
pilot gas shutoff switch (if equipped). Wait 10 minutes for the pilot to cool, and remove the pilot cover. Relight the pilot, following
the instructions on the control housing or access cover. If the pilot won't stay lit, shut off the gas supply once again and inspect
Once the pilot is burning, inspect the flame. If the flame is too weak (left flame), it will be blue and may barely touch
the thermocouple. If the flame is too strong (center flame), it will also be blue, but may be noisy and lift off the pilot.
A well-adjusted flame (right flame) will be blue with a yellow tip, and cover ˝" at the end of the thermocouple.
Turn the pilot adjustment screw on the control housing or gas valve to reduce the gas pressure. If it's weak, turn the
screw in the other direction to increase the gas pressure. If the flame appears weak and yellow even after adjustment, remove the pilot
jet and clean the orifice. The thermocouple creates an electrical charge from the heat of the pilot flame. If the pilot in your furnace
or boiler goes out quickly, and you have made sure the gas supply is sufficient, you may need to replace the thermocouple. Turn off the
gas supply. Using an open-end wrench, loosen the thermocouple tube fitting from the control housing or gas valve. Unscrew the
thermocouple from the pilot housing and install a new one. Tighten it with a wrench just until it's snug.
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Ductwork - Modifications due to Renovations. Ducting furnace heater, central air-conditioning and forced air system. Forced-air furnace, heat exchanger, blower motor, air filter & changes in air flow. Delaware County,
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|HVAC Industry Glossary of Terms
|HVAC(R): Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning an R may be added to
|Split system: Refrigeration system where the refrigerant is piped from one
part to another, such as residential heat pump or a/c system.|
|Packaged or self-contained: Refrigeration system where everything including
the air moving hardware is kept in one box, such as a window air conditioner or a roof-top unit.|
|Forced air: heating and or cooling system that connects to the conditioned
space with duct-work that uses air as the moving fluid. The heating or cooling can come from any number of sources.|
|Radiant: System that uses hot surfaces to radiate or convect heat into the
environment. Without the use of fans or blowers|
|Heat Pump: Refrigeration device that can be used to move heat to or from air
or water, or to or from air to water then the water is used to heat or cool air. In some parts of the world they are also known as
"Reverse Cycle". |
|Evaporator: The part of a refrigeration system that gets cold. It is called
the evaporator because it is the part of the system that evaporates the refrigerant from liquid to vapor.|
|Condenser: The part of a refrigeration system that gives up heat from the
refrigerant and changes the refrigerant from a vapor to a liquid. Condensers can be either water cooled or air cooled.|
|Compressor: The heart of any refrigeration system that pumps
(absorption systems that use ammonia or lithium bromide do not have compressors). Compressors can be
reciprocating, rotary, scroll, disc, or screw.
|Receiver: Tank on the liquid side of a system that holds excess refrigerant
in the system that needs to be there for proper operation.|
|Accumulator: Tank on the suction side of a system that holds excess
refrigerant to prevent slugging the compressor with liquid.|
|Outdoor coil: The coil on a heat pump system that is located out side or in
the ground loop of a groundsourced heatpump. This is so not to be confused with the condensor on an airconditioning system.|
|Indoor coil: The coil on a heat pump that is located inside. This is so
not to be confused with the evaporator on an air conditioning system.|
Dual-Diameter Tubular Heat Exchanger - Long life,Durable Silicon Nitride Igniter System - Electronic Control Board with Self-Diagnostics - Run ...
LoNox Emission 70000 BTU Furnace, 80% Efficiency, 2-Stage Burner, 1600 CFMMulti-Speed Blower, Upflow/Horizontal Flow Application The GoodmanŽ GMH8 ...
Ingrams Water & Air Equipment120000 BTU TRANE DOWNFLOW NATURAL GAS FURNACE
120000 BTU TRANE DOWNFLOW NATURAL GAS FURNACE
Ingrams Water And Air Equipment100000 BTU RHEEM 92.1 NATURAL GAS FURNACE
100000 BTU RHEEM 92.1% NATURAL GAS FURNACE
Ingrams Water And Air Equipment100000 BTU RHEEM 80 UPFLOW/HORIZONTAL NATURAL GAS FURNACE
100000 BTU RHEEM 80% UPFLOW/HORIZONTAL NATURAL GAS FURNACE
Goodman GMS80703AN Gas Furnace 70,000 BTU - 80% The GMS8 series multi-position.
92000 BTU Furnace, 92.1% Efficiency, Single-Stage Burner, 1600 CFM Multi-Speed Blower, Upflow Application.
GOODMAN GAS FURNACE 93% Two stage (Convertible), Multi-Speed GCH90904CXA The Goodman GCH9 93% AFUE two stage (convertible), multi-speed,
Ingrams Water and Air Equipments 50000 BTU RHEEM 80% UPFLOW/HORIZONTAL NATURAL GAS FURNACE
50000 BTU RHEEM 80% UPFLOW/HORIZONTAL NATURAL GAS FURNACE